
pleasure 



Drives 



■:^ 



Around 
Cape Ann 





/f pound ©ape yf r^n 



PROCTER BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 
Gloucester, Mass. 



GLOUCESTER, MASS. : 

CAPE ANN ADVERTISER ELECTRIC PRINTING OFFICE. 



PREFACE. 



' I 'HE drives about Gloucester prove most inviting 
and attractive, not only to our own people, but to 
the thousands of summer visitors who keenly enjoy 
them, for you find Nature so lavish with her charms, 
combining ocean, river, beaches, massive boulders, 
grand old woods with hill and dale, and producing 
such magnificent scenery, while its diverting variety 
furnishes hours of pleasure which are redolent with 
happy and delightful memories. 

Just in the height of the season, when there are so 
many strangers in town, a few pen pictures of the 
most popular drives will serve to intensify the interest 
of tourists in Gloucester and introduce to them the 
places they should surely visit by carriage, and will 
lend color to their anticipations of the charms old 
Cape Ann can throw about them. 



J)piV0 ho Ea^h Gloaee^hcp. 



n^HE drive to this suburb of Gloucester gives one 
a most diversified and quaint view, for you 
skirt the harbor and pass through the business street 
of tlie city, eventually reaching one of the gayest, 
most charming and picturesque summer resorts on 
the North Shore. 

The route gives views of the wharves, the princi- 
pal business of this fishing city, which proves most 
interesting to the stranger, who can, if so disposed, 
turn aside from the regular road and spend a few 
leisure hours in gaining information relative to the 
catch and curing of fish. Don't be afraid to in- 
quire, if you are the least interested, for our dealers 
always are glad to welcome such inquirers. Then 
again you may run across one of the old skippers 
who is done with salt water cruising and is working 
ashore, and you will find him ever ready to impart 
information and give an account of his experience, 
and live over again, as it were, in his vivid mind pic- 
tures, big trips, heroic deeds and other pleasing 
adventures. 

Passing along Main Street a view of the principal 
business establishments, the banks, post office, etc., 



6 Pleastire Drives Aro?n?d Cape A?i?z. 

may be seen ; then the ride tlirough that vicinity 
known as the "Head of the Harbor," where many 
quaint buildings on high elevations attract the eye, 
and as you turn the bend of the road at the foot of 
Lufkin's Hill, a fine view of botli inner and outer 
harbors is obtained. 

Here w^e get a pretty marine picture of the fishing 
crafts and yachts lying at anchor or flitting over the 
harbor's surface, their white wings stretching out 
filled with the gentle breezes; also mammoth barks, 
ships or steamers from Trapani, Italy, or other for- 
eign ports, at the wharves of John Pew & Son and 
Wm. Parsons, id & Co., or in the stream, discharg- 
ing cargoes of salt, while the historic little island, 
"Five Pound," lying in the inner harbor, could, were 
it some centenarian, tell you of its significance during 
the Revolution. 

After passing Lufkin's Hill we come upon the 
boat building factory of Messrs. Higgins & Gifford, 
notable for havinof built three dories which success- 
fully crossed the Atlantic, one even crossing and 
recrossing safely, namely. Centennial, Nautilus and 
Little Western. 

From this point also can be seen Fort Defiance, 
the peninsula of Rocky Neck, Ten Pound Island and 
Stage Fort. These points of interest with their sur- 
roundings are fitting attractions to one of the finest 
maritime pictures to be found on the New England 
coast. Ascending Point Hill it would be well to 



Pleasure Drives Arotmd Cape An?i. 7 

stop and view the prospect over, taking in the harbor 
scene again and the city, the Farms and their sur- 
roundings, and then drive slowly through the thriving 
suburb of East Gloucester. 

Two churches, Methodist Episcopal and Baptist, 
situated within rifle shot of one another, give assur- 
ance that the spiritual wants of the people receive 
attention, while Independent Hall and the attractive 
and comfortablv furnished rooms of the Columbia 
Club gfive evidence that there is no lack of accom- 
modations for social gatherings and enjoyment. 

The many stores for all branches of business and 
the large fish firms are open examples of the thrift 
and industry among the inhabitants. 

The easy access to the city proper by ferry and 
electrics are other proofs of its popularity as a busi- 
ness centre besides its excellent position on the water 
front. 

In driving, the. fishing establishments and wharves 
of Say ward Bros., William H. Wonson & Son, 
Benj. Witham, Shute & Merchant, Slade Gorton 
& Co., B. F. Allen & Co., George Dennis, William 
Parsons, 2d & Co., Samuel Montgomery & Bro., 
Ernest H. Wonson and William S. Wonson, give an 
idea of the business life in this section (from the 
"Head of the Harbor" to the "Square"), the firms 
being old and established houses. A word regarding 
the William S. Wonson firm. It rests on a spot 
historic in marine circles as the place where the first 



8 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

schooner was ])uilt and lannched by East Gloncester's 
noted settler in the early days, one Capt. Andrew 
Robinson. History tells us he "was the first con- 
triver of schooners," which shows how much we 
are under obligation to East Gloucester's settler. 

On launching his craft, as it went off the stocks 
a looker-on cried, "O how she scoons I " and Capt. 
Robinson, dashing a bottle of rum against the side 
of the vessel cried, "A scooner let her be!" (Later 
spelled schooner.) No maritime vocabularv of a date 
prior to 1713 mentions such a name for a vessel. 
Thus East Gloucester's old settler, Capt. Andrew 
Robinson, came rightly by the honor historv gives 
him, and the spot whence his schooner was launched 
a notable one in this suburb's points of interest. 

Passing by this historic wharf propertv, in a mo- 
ment's drive we reach another picturesque point, one 
more marine view of Rockv Neck — the landing^ of the 
steam ferry "Little Giant," the steamboat wharf 
across the harbor where lands our handsome new 
steamer "Cape Ann," which plies between Glouces- 
ter and Boston, the fine fishing establishment of Reed 
k. Gamage. Should a knight of the brush chance to 
be with you as you ride by this spot at sunset, he 
would be more than enthusiastic at the gorgeous col- 
orings of the sky, which invariably occur at that time. 
This pier, for that reason, is more than a popular 
place for sketching by our resident artists during the 
summer. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape An??. 9 

Then imasfine this scene in winter — the harbor 
frozen, the sea-gulls crying over the mast-heads, the 
ice-bedecked vessels and the grey snowy skies. 

Right here we get a picturesque view of verdant 
hill land. On its heis^hts are situated one or two 
houses — one especially by its odd structure and gaily 
colored paint at once attracts attention, the residence 
of Mr. Amos Story. The rocky height to the left of 
this house and almost opposite the fish firm of Reed 
& Gamage, is known as the "Bonfire Rock," for 
from time immemorial every Christmas eve the young 
people here have had their bonfire on this rock for 
the purpose of l^urning old Santa Claus out from his 
hiding place. 

Thus drivdno^ along- we are bounded on the left bv 
hill land and on the right by wharf property, e\ent- 
uallv reaching the firm of John F. Wonson & Co., at 
once recognized by the huge sea serpent nailed against 
their building, ^vhich was captured by one of their 
fleet on a recent voyage (?) This firm, besides being 
famed as the owner of this sea serpent, are also noted 
as being part owners of the "Rigel," which rescued 
the explorers, scientists and crew of the ill-fated steam- 
er " Miranda," in the summer of 1S94, in the Arctic 
ocean, the " Rigel " being engaged in the herring fish- 
er\' off the coast of Greenland. Genuine and heart- 
felt thanks have been evinced by the rescued partv 
to Capt. Dixon and his crew in more than an ordi- 
nary wav. One of the partv has written a book 



lo Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

containing the story of their voyage home on the ves- 
'sel, and the publication is handsomely illustrated. 

Rocky Neck looms up after leaving the " Square," 
and it would be well to drive across the causeway 
when we reach it and visit another flourishing section 
of East Gloucester. 

Rocky Neck will, this season, enter her name on 
the list as a summer resort. Mr. Frank Foster, a 
retired sea captain, has added an annex to the " Rack- 
liffe House " on Fremont street, the old homestead 
of his wife's parents, which commands a beautiful 
view of the outer harbor. Ten Pound Island, Mag- 
nolia and Fresh Water Cove, and with its other 
natural quaint surroundings and extensive grounds, 
its proximity to the electrics and ferry, and its short 
distance from the resorts at Eastern Point, promises 
to become an enviable and attractive retreat for sum- 
mer visitors. 

The business establishment here of Messrs. James 
G. Tarr & Bro. will at once claim attention, as it 
comprises one of the largest out-fitting establishments 
in the city, where the fisheries in all its branches are 
conducted, from the landing of the fish to the curing, 
packing and shipping to all parts of the country. 
Here are their marine railways, on which the once 
fastest yacht, the "Mayflower," is seen every sum- 
mer, besides many other sailing and steam vachts, 
being capable of repairing all sorts of crafts, as their 



Pleasure Drives Arottizd Cape Ann. ii 

railways have all the latest Improvements, giving 
employment to a large number of hands. 

The copper paint factories of Messrs. Tarr &: 
Wonson and James H. Tarr are other branches of 
business conducted here.^ These paints are as staple 
as flour, and have v/on their way into popular favor 
solely on their own merits. 

The scene from this section is very fine, and will 
enchain the attention, as new and beautiful views 
attract the eve during^ the drive. 

It may be well to state right here that in 1S49 ^^^ 
undivided half of this entire property was j^urchased 
by Mr. Cyrus Story for $500. It was then used as 
a sheep pasture. 




Ride ho Ea^hcpD ePoir2h. 



7T GAIN crossing the causeway, we turn to the 
rio^ht, driving up Patcli's Hill, pass the Har- 
bor View Hotel, with all its modern improvements, 
its fine beach for bathing and its long pier, the popu- 
lar and fashionable boat landing and after-dinner 
promenade. This hotel is especially attractive to 
Washingtonians ; notably among them being Major 
Powell, of the Bureau of Psychology, Etymology and 
Analogy, and author of great philosophic and scien- 
tific works of value ; Jane Brigham Curtis, the noted 
Washington artist, who was commissioned last season 
to paint the portraits of our noted summer resident 
litterateurs. Rev. Herbert D. Ward and Elizabeth 
Stuart Phelps- Ward ; and Parker Mann, another noted 
Washington artist. At this hotel in seasons past 
summered the present wife of ex-President Harrison, 
and also every spring a large contingent of W^ellesley 
and Radcliffe College students spend the vacation of 
that season at this hotel. 

An inspection of the interior of the Harbor View 
annex, built in the season of '95, would be interesting. 
It has the quaint smoking-room, where a most delight- 
ful smoke can be enjoyed, in the midst of which one 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 13 

would be prone to revel in thoughts of the olden times, 
as the furnishings and decorations are so much in ac- 
cordance with bygone days. The brick fire-place, the 
old fashioned pictures, old fashioned reading table, 
all give the air that city-bred people so much covet. 
Another pleasure would be to visit the dining hall, 
and view the fine collection of old blue china belong- 
ing to Mrs. Osborne. A drive through the court by 
the hotel, and "The Terrace" will dawn upon \our 
view in all the glory of its Dutch architecture. 

The interior contains 25 guests' rooms, a sun par- 
lor and a large ground floor parlor, 33x56, with great 
open fire-place and colonial mantle, vouched to be 150 
years old. 

The winding gallery stair-case is most artistic and 
the draped window on the landing is a very unique 
arrangement, privileging one to gaze down into the 
parlor upon the morning picture of life and beauty or 
out over the restless, seething sea. " The Terrace " 
commands one of the grandest views here, and the 
house itself is not outrivaled here for odd architecture 
and furnishings. 

Mr. and Mrs. Walter F. Osborne are the host and 
hostess of this popular hostelry. 

• Then on the left hand side of the hill is noticed 
Merrill Hall, well remembered as Craig Cottage, and 
is managed in connection with Hawthorne Inn. The 
hall had the honor of entertaining the noted dramatist, 
Bronson Howard, and the Baltimore authoress. Miss 



14 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

Anna Vernon Dorsey, last season, and ath'acts a fine 
and select class of people. 

Next we come upon the line remodelled residence 
of the heirs of the Patch estate. 

A little farther on, the popular Delphine, where 
for season after season such noted persons as Prof. 
Geo. E. Whiting, Prof. Louis C. Elson, Walter L. 
Dean and Childe Hassom have watched the growth 
and popularity of their favored resort. The charming 
cottage opposite the Delphine has been called Hassom 
Cottage in honor of its noted occupant, Childe Hassom. 
The Delphine is under the management of ]Mr. and 
Mrs. Simpson Lyle, and has been greatly improved 
upon this season. 

Now we reach the Patch Willows and Haw- 
thorne Lane, where white capped nurses or nattily at- 
tired bicyclists are enjoying the beauty and restfulness 
of this shady, vernal road. Shall we keep on or turn 
down the lane r 

Turn down the lane l)y all means. Don't say 
that when in Gloucester you never visited Hawthorne 
Inn, ^'the place where you see the right side of life," 
for it is the largest, gayest and most charming of this 
suburb's hostelries. Before reaching the Inn one has 
to drive down a lane bordered with drooping willow 
trees, through which can be seen at intervals bits of 
the harbor, which are being kissed by the noon-day 
sun, while on the other side of the lane are bright green 



Pleasure Df'ives Aroiiitd Cape Aim. 15 

fields, the pleasure ground of feeding cattle and a 
popular sketching resort of the artists. 

Two new Qtieen Anne cottages greet the eye on 
the right hand side of the lane, and are the summer 
homes of Delphine guests. Then we come upon a 
miniature village comprising Hawthorne Inn and its 
cottages of varied architecture, namely, the Old 
Home, Manse, Seven Gables, Province House, Or- 
chard Cottage, Baldwin Cottage, Wayside, Seminary 
Hall, Peabody Hall, — and the temple of enjoyment, 
the Casino. 

When the Inn is reached, one will not wonder 
why it is so popular as a summer resort, for the grand 
ocean view it commands from its broad and extensive 
verandas and "decks," the artistic arrangement of 
the cottages and their charming and comfortable fur- 
nishings and adornments, together with the excellent 
management of Mr. George O. Stacy, its proprietor 
and owner — all these advantages have won for it a phe- 
nomenal popularity. It is the Mecca for all the young 
people of the summer colony, and the Casino, so dear 
to them, teems with memories of their gay and de- 
lightful social events. You will not be disappointed 
in your visit to the Inn, in the least, after you've taken 
a tour of its grounds and cottages and, you will have 
no cause to marvel why it is the rendezvous, season 
after season, of some 450 people, comprising Philadel- 
phians, Washingtonians, Gothamites, Chicagoans, 
Bostonians, and in fact people from all over the coun- 



1 6 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

try, and why such noted people as Richard Mansfield, 
Miss Rollvvagon, Mrs. Bronson Rumsey, of Buffalo, 
N. Y., Miss Helen M. Knowlton, Messrs. Theodore 
Wendell, Metcalf, and Duvernick, that noted trio in 
the art world, Lucy Cannon, the Baltimore artist, 
Judge James Smith, the noted Buffalo (N. Y.) judge 
and philanthropist, the late noted New York artist, 
De Haas, and wife, Emma Thursby, Judge Bumpus, 
Prof. Emerton of Harvard University, Charles Rich- 
ard Dodge of Washington (of the Department of Fibre 
and Invention) and wife, have found it a pleasure to 
inscribe their names on the Hawthorne Inn register. 

Leaving the Inn we drive through the willows, 
and soon notice a sign which reads, "To the Fair 
View." One really ought to drive up the road, for 
this hotel with its orchard and green fields, with the 
hills for a background, has for two seasons past been 
the summer home of Rudyard Kipling and wife, and 
Mrs. Kipling's mother and daughter-, Mrs. Balestire 
(mother of the noted author, Wolcott Balestier,) and 
Miss Josephine Balestier. 

Also here have Frank Dempster Sherman, the noted 
Xew York poet, and Miss Lucy Conant, Boston's well 
known artist, season after season sought this as their 
summer retreat, besides other noted people, who ha\e 
enjoyed the geniality and courtesy of the owner and 
proprietor, Mr. Thomas Renton. Having viewed 
Kipling's summer home we come down the Fair View 



Pleasure Drives Aronnd Cafe Ann, 17 

roadway, noticing several cottages on our right in a 
bordering field near the water front. 

We also notice on our left an unpretentious dwell- 
ing, yet one of the oldest residences here, that has 
afforded a summer home for hosts of tourists. 

This is the Mailman Cottage, the summer home of 
the editors of Poel Pore, Lieut. Herald and family 
of the United States navy, and many other noted and 
influential people from the various cities in the union, 
have inscribed their names on its register. 

The primitiveness of the house, the esteem and 
respect in which the hostess is held, has so endeared 
its patrons to her that year after 3-ear the same familiar 
faces for nearlv twentv-five seasons have o^reeted her 
when the summer opens. 

A roadway to the right with the gateway open, at- 
tracts the eve, and although so near the Eastern Point 
Associates' property, with its gate wide open, let's 
dri\'e through the gateway to the left, wdiere a most 
imposing cottage greets the eye, which has a decided 
atmosphere of newness about it. 

This new cottage erected this spring rests on the 
rocky bluff where once rested the cottage of Mrs. 
Elizabeth Stuart Phelps- Ward, now moved away to 
the hills. 

By gazing at this cottage, one can see what a view" 
Mrs. Ward's commanded, namely, of Eastern Point, 
Niles' Beach, the broad harbor, Norman's Woe, the 



1 8 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ami. 

Magnolia shore and all the other natural surroundings 
of beauty. 

This new cottage on this noted site, belongs to Mr. 
Claflin of Hopkinton, Mass., (a relative of Ex. Gov. 
Claflin of Massachusetts). Also exists here, the first 
cottage ever occupied by Mrs. Ward, and now occu- 
pied by Prof, and Mrs. Clement Lawrence Smith of 
Har^•ard University. 

Leaving this locality we pass through the gate, 
which stands at the entrance of the Eastern Point 
Associates' propert}-, by its ivy covered stone Gate 
Lodge, and can now enjoy a drive along the broad, 
smooth road, which has been built at the upper edge 
of what has been known as Niles' Beach. 

This is the main plaisance of the whole summer 
colony, for here we meet the bicyclists, the promenad- 
ers, the bathers, the yachters, the driving parties and 
the artists, all of whom make this their promenade. 

To our left we notice the " Beachcroft," occupy- 
ing a tine position on the upland adjoining the beach, 
which gets the finest ocean view of any hotel here, 
and all the advantages of boating and bathing. This 
hotel is under the supervision of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas 
E. Day, and has always been especially attractive to 
Buffalonians (N. Y.), such as Rev. Dr. Lobdell, the 
noted divine of that citv. Judge Foster of the Buffalo 
Cominercial^ F. S. Duvernick, the noted sculptor, 
of Boston, and many others. 

The cottage next the Beachcroft, erected in the 



Pleasiirc Drives Around Cape Ann. 19 

spring of 1894, was occupied during that season by 
the noted German pianist, Carl Ba^rmann, and wife, 
and last season by the Lindley Johnsons of Phila- 
delphia. 

Following the main road we notice next the cot- 
tage of Mr. John J. Stanwood, one of Gloucester's 
prominent business men . Its situation on the eminence 
at once attracts attention, for its odd and unique 
style of architecture, with its close proximity to the 
beach, the fresh water pond and Brace's Cove, causes 
it to be one of the most admired of the summer 
homes here. 

Those who remember this property as the Niles 
Farm cannot but marvel at what the Eastern Point 
Associates have done in transforming a beautiful rural 
moorland and beach into an up-to-date summer resort 
with enough rustic environments left to have an added 
charm. 

We now drive by the grove of silver-grey poplars, 
where rests some fatigued bicyclist enjoying a quiet 
smoke, the meanwhile drinking in the magnificent 
ocean view before him ; or some resting nurse girl 
sewing diligently or reading while her little charge 
sleeps calmly, soothed to dreamland by the gentle 
summer breezes. 

Now we have reached the fresh water pond, dot- 
ted with water lilies or other aquatic plants, and In 
the depths of which pickerel find a home, to the joy 
of those who are fond of fishing-rod, hook and line. 



20 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

This pond has been an interesting subject for artists 
— for who could resist the temptation to reproduce 
this scene before him, if the least passion for the art 
divine exist within his soul — those drooping willows 
gently bending to the water's surface, where are mir- 
rored their glances ? 

We come upon the farm-house, now, its spider- 
webbed piazza covered with brilliant blossoming nas- 
turtiums. We look for the old-fashioned garden and 
barn — they are gone, and in their place progress and 
the Jin de siecle adornments and surroimdings are 
noticeable. Several years ago it was the only house 
here, and the old-fashioned exterior possesses an inte- 
rior equally as antique, and when it passed into other 
hands it was leased as a summer home and studio to 
Reginald Cleveland Coxe, the noted artist and illus- 
trator of so manv of William Dean Howells' novels. 
Mr. Coxe is the son of Bishop Cleveland Coxe of the 
diocese of New York. Last season it was occupied 
by Messrs. Eisham and Faxon, New York artists, and 
makes an ideal summer home for the knights of the 
brush. 

We now come upon the " stone woman," which 
Mrs. Elizabeth Stuart Phelps- Ward claims as her 
discovery. This freak of nature is best viewed* at 
a distance for one to wonder why she bears that 
appellation. She is in reality an old granite post that 
helped to form a gate-way to an old barn, which was 
situated to the right of the old road, now but a path 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 31 

compared to the fine laid out road around the shore 
hue, which will aid in continuing your drive. From 
a distance one would veritably believe that a figure 
of a woman with a shawl thrown over her head, gaz- 
ing out to "^ sea had been carved out of this granite 
post. If one is curious to view the "stone woman" 
more closely, get down from your caniage and walk 
to her and see how easily "Father Time" in his 
sculpturing can deceive us. She looks, in fact, like 
Lot's wife, another name that has been given her. 
Continuing our drive along this beautiful shore 
road, we gain -a view of the whole sweep of the har- 
bor. We next visit the pier, view the various hand- 
some residences which grace the broad avenues, 
belonging to Messrs. Farrington, Lewis and Miss 
Church, members of the Eastern Point syndicate, and 
the Messrs. Greenough, Gay and Kay, all being 
wealthy residents of Boston, and as we proceed, inhal- 
ing: the fragrance of the flower-bedecked fields and 
roadsides, there dawns upon us the Eastern Point 
lighthouse, with its guardian "Mother Ann,"' that 
statue in the rocky cliff. To get the best view of this 
other remarkable freak of nature, the existence of 
which is now as well known as that of the " Old Man 
of the Mountain," in the New Hampshire mountains, 
drive past the lighthouse till you reach a slight eleva- 
tion in the road, then you will exclaim, like every 
other visitor to this spot, " How wonderful ! " The 



22 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Aim. 

sieht vou «-aze on will be as real as the accompanying 
picture, yet even more defined. 

To the late Mr. William Thompson, a resident 
of the "Witch City," and a former summer resident 
here, are we indebted for tlie discovery of this remark- 
able natural curiosity. 

After paying our homage to the "mother of our 
Cape," we have a delightful shore road before us ere 
our route terminates, for the owners of this property 
have laid out through the hills a continuous road, 
which gives one the privilege of passing Brace's 
Cove, its Bemo Ledges, another view of the fresh 
water pond, the life saving station, its gray pebbly 
beach — the haunt and home of the sea gulls — scenes 
reproduced time and again on our resident artists' 
canvases — a proof of their remarkable beauty and 
charm. Following the road we find ourselves on 
a high elevation which, when descended, gives a full 
view of the vStanwood cottage and the handsome new 
cottage of the Elliotts of St. Louis. 

We now find ourselves on our homeward route, 
passing again through the gate of the lodge, and by 
the hotels once more. Reaching the Hassom cottag-e, 
a willow road will be noticed, and if we should care 
to spare the time to drive down it, we would soon 
come upon the quaint little summer home of Mr. and 
Mrs. Herbert D. Ward (Mrs. Elizabeth Stuart Phelps- 
Ward) set in a broad green field surrounded bv the 
expanse of hills. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 23 

Reluctantly leaving all these pleasant scenes, we 
return by the same road and trace our way along East 
Main street to Mt. Pleasant avenue, and drive slowly 
up the hill. Reaching its height, the city with her 
buildings, the inner and outer harbors and the bav, 
all are in view, and make the avenue a very sightly 
location for the many pretty houses which are situated 
on and off the avenue. 

We pass the fine farm of Mr. George M. Wonson, 
and should we take the time to drive in the fir-tree 
bordered roadway, we would think we were not at 
the seaside but in the country. A view from the 
cupola of the great barn here, which is alwavs open 
to visitors, would never be forgotten. 

Soon we have the privilege of viewing the hand- 
some residence and beautiful grounds of the mayor 
of our city, for East Gloucester's public-spirited and 
prominent citizen, Hon. David I. Robinson, has for 
a third term had this honor bestowed upon him. 
Next to his residence is the finely equipped engine 
house, and a little farther on Mt. Pleasant Cemetery, 
wliere are laid to rest manv who have foug^ht a o-ood 
fight and whose memories will ever be cherished in 
this vicinity. 

A turn to the right brings us to the summer homes 
of the Bass Rock colony and the site of the famous 
Bass Rock Hotel, which was burned on the night 
of the 25th of January, 1S96. 

Slowly approaching the coast line, where the sea 



24 PI c a SI I J' e Drives Aroujid Cape Ann. 

in all its majesty is dashing the white waves against 
the rocks which line the shore in all directions, piles 
upon piles of these monster rocks meet the vision, 
true signs of the glacier period, and the sea madly 
riots over them, gaining the best of the combat, 
crawling up their sides, swirling over their smooth 
surfaces, dashing and pounding, oh I so cruel and 
treacherous looking — but possessing a fascination 
which renders the scene one of weird beauty and 
attraction. 

The view at this point is one of the best about the 
Cape. The waters of old ocean, with the white 
wings of hup.dreds of vessels sailing in all directions, 
the pleasure and freight steamers sending their smoke 
into the heavens, at once tell us why Gloucester has 
reached such a place in the maritime ^vorld. The 
twin lio-hts of old historic Thatcher's Island stand sen- 

o 

tinel like in their orrandeur. We also see Milk and 
Salt Islands with their fishermen's huts, and Brier 
Neck with Gloucester's Coney Island bevond ; Little 
Good Harbor Beach with its hosts of surf bathers 
and promenaders ; the trestle over which the Long 
Beach cars, freighted with human beings, run to that 
beautiful spot, Long Beach, where the Casino and 
the hills and dales, massive bowlders and smooth 
beach afford amusement and delight to the thousands 
of pleasure seekers. Here are many cottages, also, 
occupied by out-of-town people. 

We can cross the channel and G:et on Little Good 



P/cas?/re Drives Around Cape Ann. 35 

Harbor Beach, if the tide is sufficiently low, and ride 
over to Brier Neck and Long Beach if we wish, even 
to Rockport, a most delightful drive, with such a com- 
bination of magnificent scenery, flavored with salt 
water in all its absolute pureness. 

As this drive has been very long, we are of the 
opinion that another day devoted to this route would 
be a fresher pleasure, therefore we turn into the 
quaint little "Joppa" road, drive along the Rockport 
road through that portion known as the "Farms," 
and return to our different destinations with such 
delightfid impressions in our minds of East Glouc- 
ester, Mt. Pleasant avenue and Bass Rocks. 




J)r^iVG ho /^a^noWsi. 



rj NOTHER popular and delightful drive is that to 
and around Magnolia. 

Starting from the Siu'fside, we cross the Cut 
bridge, stopping a few moments to take in the fine 
harbor scene with Ten Pound Island, Eastern Point 
and Rocky Neck jutting out into old ocean, forming 
an attractive picture, while numerous vessels sailing 
in or out of the harbor, or gliding against the hori- 
zon, give life and animation to the grand panorama. 

We turn to the other side of the bridgfe and we 
have a far different picture. Annisquam River winds 
in and out through the marshes, while towering above 
is Bellevue Heights, Wolf Hill with its camp houses 
and adjoining territory, forming a varied background 
to the scene, while in the distance West Gloucester, 
with its forests of pines, lends the charm of color and 
beauty. 

On we go past the Stage Fort property, which 
Gloucester at one time was intent on purchasing as a 
park, but the generous bequest of Ravenswood, by the 
late Samuel E. Sawyer, will doubtless leave this beau- 
tiful and historic stretch of land for residential pur- 
poses. 



Pleasure Drives Arotmd Cape Aim. 27 

An interesting: incident occurred the summer when 
Buffalo Bill's troupe tented here and gave their won- 
derful exhibit. The Indians were more than charmed 
with the spot, and in their wanderings over the fields, 
miraculously came across mounds that were made by 
native Indians in the days of yore. Their chief im- 
mediately called them together and suitable commem- 
orative services were held. It was certainly a very 
impressive picture when one watched them mount to 
the huge bowlders and shade their eyes and gaze out 
to sea, enveloped in their gaily colored blankets, for 
then one's imaginations were easily led to the historic 
days of our city, when men of their race really gazed 
from these headlands and watched the new settlers 
sail into the harbor and supplant them. 

Driving past Stage Fort we ascend Bray's Hill and 
soon reach the residences of Messrs. John W. Bray 
and Charles B. Presson, on Beachmont avenue, which 
are worthy of favorable comment, as are the many 
valuable building lots for which these fertile fields 
will be used in the future. 

On the opposite side of the road from Beachmont 
avenue we notice a little road, almost a cow path, 
which leads to Bond's Hill, where rests the hut of 
Gloucester's hermit, Mr. Mason A. Walton, who for 
years has lived in these dense woods far from all habi- 
tation, cultivating the friendship of birds, squirrels, 
woodchucks, spiders and other natives, which claim 
this spot their home. No more interesting place to 



28 Pleas2ii'c Drives Ai-oiiud Cape Ann. 

visit (on foot) is there than this of hermit Walton's 

and no more intelligent person to converse with can 

be found. The hermit devotes his time to literary 

works of a botanical and political nature, from which 

his livelihood is gained. He sleeps nearly the year 

round in a hammock in a duck covered tent among 

the trees. He comes into town daily to dine, and is 

a familiar personage on our streets, usually attired in 

* 
the conventional deep black, large slouched hat, under 

which rests a head well covered with sandy hair, and 
being lame, is always accompanied by a heavy walk- 
ing stick. Having the hermit well placed in our 
imaginations and also an intention to visit him, we 
drive along, eventually reaching the Dale and Hovey 
estates, with their wealth of beauty and delightful 
woodland environments, enhanced still more bv the 
Swiss style of architecture of their summer homes. 

Just beyond and a little below the hill rests the 
former summer home of the late Samuel E. Sawyer, 
an attractive English villa, bearing the most appro- 
priate appellation of "Brookbank." How much is 
our city indebted to the deceased owner of this villa, 
for the Sawyer Free Library and tlie funds for its 
maintenance, and for other gifts to our city, beside 
Ravenswood, which under the skilful handling of 
landscape gardeners will be in the near future Glouc- 
ester's park. 

Then we have the drive along Fresh Water Cove 
to enjoy, and soon enter the famous wooded road with 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 29 

its agreeable shade and lovely tints of green, so restful 
on a bright, sunshiny day. 

Here we meet the fine equipages and equestrians, 
which are proofs of the fashionable resort which we 
soon are to have the pleasure of visiting. 

We take this leisurely and in good time arrive at 
the road which branches from the main road and leads 
to Magnolia. The sign board on the left informs us 
that Magnolia is reached by the avenue bearing its 
name. We turn into this avenue, obtaining glimpses 
of ocean scenery and the village, which is a foretaste 
of what is to come. 

On we ride past pleasant cottages and the little 
chapel whose history speaks so eloquently of the re- 
ligious sentiment of the natives of what was at the 
time it was erected known as Kettle Cove, until the 
name blossomed out into the more euphonious one of 
Magnolia, called such from those large, white, frag- 
rant flowers which grow in the great tree covered 
swamps beyond the Magnolia hills. 

Magnolias were discovered here by Dr. Cutler and 
are found in no other spot in New England, and thus 
proved very suggestive for a name for this summer 
resort. 

The chapel here is very dear to the hearts of the 
people, especially to the elderlv ones, as within its 
walls their prayers and songs of praise have rendered 
it a consecrated place. Here they have gathered year 
after vear when their hearts have been made heavv by 



30 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ajui. 

the hand of affliction, and found comfort in God's 
promises, and in their hours of joy they have been 
rendered still the happier, as they participated in the 
services of this sanctuary. 

Across the way is the schoolhouse, and near by is 
the old s:ravevard, where the form of manv a loved 
one has been recentlv laid to rest. 

On we drive, passing the Oak Grove House, which 
is charmingly situated a little off the avenue, in a 
grove of sturdy oaks, which give it its name. Then 
we come to Willow Cottage, famous as the first public 
house in Alagnolia to entertain strangers within its 
hospitable walls. Crescent Beach lies to the riglit, 
where at the regular hour for bathing, two hundred 
people may be seen enjoying their salt sea bath, and 
the Crescent Hotel, owned bv Mr. Allen Knowlton, 
has a deserved popularity among those who wish to 
obtain the benefits and enjoy the pleasures of a well 
conducted seaside resort. Many from New York and 
Philadelphia have made this their summer home for 
years. 

The far famed Hesperus House on Hesperus ave- 
nue, is an object of much attraction. It was built 
by Mr. Daniel Fuller in 1877, since which time it has 
been much enlarged. It is under the management of 
Mrs. Ora Page, and has secured a reputation which 
fills it season after season with the wealthy and re- 
fined from all parts of the country, and its parlors and 



IHcasure Drives Around Cape Aim. 31 

dance hall are centres of nearly all the social events 
of the Magnolia summer colony. 

Opposite the Hesperus House is the handsome 
Hesperus Villa, a well appointed lodge, owned by- 
Mrs. Octavia Wilkins of Brooklyn, N. Y., and 
where many lodgers from the Hesperus House find a 
spacious and lovely artistic summer home. 

The Oceanside on Lexington avenue is another 
attractive and first-class hotel, under the management 
of Mr. George A. Upton. It commands a charming 
view of ocean and forest, and the sojourner at this 
establishment will find his wants well cared for and 
will have opportunities of meeting celebrities in art, 
music and letters, and noted people in the financial 
and social world, which proofs can be found on the 
Oceanside register. 

Next looms up the Magnolia Hotel, a magnificent 
hostelery, inviting all who wish for a charming sum- 
mer resort to try the merits of its pleasant rooms and 
social life. It makes a long needed addition to the 
hotel accommodations of Magnolia, and under the 
management of Mr. H. W. Priest is gaining an 
enviable reputation among the popular hotels. 

Riding over these beautiful avenues, which every- 
where abound, inhaling the air, toned up with salt 
sea breezes, the eye ever charmed with the changing 
scenes of ocean, beach, forest, well kept grounds and 
lawns, handsome dwellings, and all the accompani- 
ments that wealth and refinement can achieve, it can 



32 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

hardly be conceived that all these changes ha\'e been 
effected within the past fifteen years. But such is the 
fact. The work of laying it cut was commenced l)y 
its owner, the late Daniel W. Fuller, of Swampscott, 
in 1S67. Then it was simply a fishing hamlet. It 
was a work of slow growth, but perseverance won, 
and the Hesperus House, of which he and his wife 
were the original proprietors, together with the sale of 
building lots and continued good management on the 
part of those who have had charge of the property 
after Mr. Fuller's untimely death by falling down a 
mine in Denver, Col., in iSSo, have brought the place 
to its now well deserved state of prosperity, and its 
future has a most brilliant forecast. 

Nor is Magnolia popular alone as a summer resort, 
but also for natural and famous points of interest— 
the Flume, Rafe's Chasm, and Norman's Woe, and 
the drive around the Point. These are attractions 
at this beautiful place that are worthy of attention. 
When one drives round the Point, the road skirts the 
very edge of the water, in fact, you seem right out in 
the ocean, with all sizes of sailing and steam craft 
passing and repassing, the waves dashing against the 
stalwart boulders, all combining to make an enjoyable 
ride and picturesque also. The Flume is a channel 
in the cliff of the rockv shore leadins: from the Flume 
road, which can boast of a length of 150 feet and a 
width of 40 inches, with its sides almost perpendicu- 
lar. Near by is that ravine, Rafe's Chasm, into 




RATE'S CHASM, MAGNOLIA. 



Pleasure Drives ArcnDid Cape Ann, 33 

which the waters of the ocean roll with terrific force. 
It Is a deeply cut fissure into the solid ledge extending 
inward 200 feet, with a depth of 60 feet, and a width 
ranging from 3 to 15 feet. Just after a storm, one 
should \isit here and witness a grand spectacle, for 
when the waves dash into the chasm you can hear 
a noise resembling thunder. 

Rafe's has claimed one victim, as the iron cross 
here signifies. Miss Martha Marion of Walton, 
N. Y., was swept off the rocks into the chasm in 
1S79, h\' the treacherous waves, and the summer 
residents erected the cross here to her memory. 

Following the path here one soon comes upon the 
reef of Norman's Woe, a small island of solid rock 
situated a few hundred yards from the main land. 
Norman's Woe at once recalls Longfellow, who has 
given it such a world fame in his "Wreck of the 
Hesperus," which occurred off this reef in the latter 
part of the seventeenth centurv. 

The homeward drive is along the road through 
the woods, which proves a most delightful experi- 
ence, giving, as it does, a diversity of scenery replete 
with pleasure. The road leads to the main highway, 
and a turn to the rig^ht will soon bring: vou back to 
the Surf side whence vou started. 






TT MOST delightful drive is that formerly known 
as around the "Little Heater," now jSIagnolia 
avenue ; it affords much pleasure and is very popular. 
Starting on Western avenue, you turn into Essex ave- 
nue, if you choose, but you can vary the ride by 
continuing along Western avenue until you reach 
Bond street, and you will find that this will afford an 
inviting drive, shady and clean. It connects with 
Essex avenue just above Lovett's hill. This Bond 
street drive is a great favorite, and for a short one 
combines much to commend it. 

Continuing along Essex avenue, and after passing 
the abutment of the Boston and Maine Railroad, you 
turn to the left at the foot of the hill and notice the 
brick pumping station of the Gloucester Water Works. 
Here commences vour journev through the woods, 
and a most delightful experience it proves, winding 
in and out under the grateful shelter of the trees. M 

The road is not verv wide, but is in good condi- 
tion, and is about four miles in length with plenty 
of turn-outs at convenient distances to allow the pass- 
ing of teams. One need not hurrv on this road, as 
you should take your own time and thoroughly enjoy 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 35 

it. There are plenty of opportunities for strolling 
in the woods, picking wild flowers and ferns, and 
in their season the luscious berries. 

One caution is necessary. Time yourself so as 
not to be on the West Gloucester end when the cars 
are due, as the railroad track in that section runs for 
a considerable distance very near the highway, and 
if vou have a spirited horse an unpleasant experience 
niiofht be vours should vou meet the train. After 
once going over the route and having a time table, 
this can be avoided, and should not detract from the 
pleasures of the drive. 

The "Little Heater" road terminates at Magnolia, 
and you can cross the main road and enjoy a dri\'e in 
this section, returning over the road through the 
woods pre\ iously spoken of, or the road mav be 
retraced and the drive home can be taken over West- 
ern avenue, which is considered among the finest in 
this vicinitv. 



^4/ J 



"^\^oun(^ ht^e par^i^t^.' 



' I 'HROUGH Essex avenue, from its junction with 
Western avenue, to Concord street, West Glouc- 
ester, and here vour ride "Around the Parish " com- 
mences, which will take vou overs ome four or five 
miles of o-ood road which almost encircles the lari^er 
part of the old Second Parish of Gloucester. The 
traveller can turn either to the east or west, arriving 
at the end of the ride again at the starting point, the 
guide-board pointing the wav to " Essex," "• Wingaer- 
sheek Beach" and " Willoughby Park." 

, We will turn to the left down Concord street, the 
road that leads to the pleasant summer houses at 
Presson's Point, just beyond which stands the Bray 
school house, while directlv opposite are its two pred- 
ecessors, one its original size and the other consider- 
ably enlarged, both used as dwellings. 

Farther on, Thompson street or "Old Meeting 
House road" turns to the left, and Causeway street 
to the right leads the way to Russ' Island ; then where 
Atlantic street turns towards Wingaersheek Beach, 
keep the left hand road past the late Judge Thomp- 
son's summer residence, and then the way winds 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape An?i. 37 

amidst pleasant pasture and woodland, by green fields 
and flourishing gardens, with now and then a farm 
house showing among its orchard trees, and then to 
the ri"ht the view broadens and Wing-aersheek and 
Ipswich l^eaches with their white sands gleaming 
brightly in the sun, and glimpses of the blue wa^'es 
of the ocean, with here and there a sail, meet the eye. 
Westward winds Essex river with Conomo Point and 
Cross' Island and their cottages in full view, while 
several ways turn from oiu" road to the pleasant camps 
of numerous summer residents who every year make 
the north shore of West Gloucester their homes. 

Then at the foot of a steep hill we come to the 
northwesterly end of Thompson street, the eastern 
extremitv of which we passed several miles back. On 
this street, a few rods from Concord street, is the 
"Old Burying Ground," one which will call to the 
mind of the visitor Whittier's exquisite poem, which 
seems so well to describe this ground : 

"The winding wall of mossy stone frost flung and broken, 
lines 

A lonesome acre thinly strewn with grass and wandering- 
vines. 

Without the wall a birch tree shows its drooped and tasselled 
head, 

Within a stag horned sumach grows, fern leaved with spikes 
of red." 

There on the verdant hillside is the grave of Rev. 
Samuel Tompson, the first pastor of the old second 
chinxh, whose home, fast falling to decay, is just 



3S Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

beyond, and whose "meetinghouse" stood a few rods 
still farther, where its foundation stones can scarely 
he seen. Years after, his name was given to the road 
where stood liis church and home and where to-dav 
his ofrave is Sfi't^en with wavinii: "rass and brisfht with 
summer wild flowers. We give an illustration of his 
tombstone, with the inscription thereon : 




Still onward our path takes us by the road that 
leads to the crumbling grist mill, and then the road 
divides to the right over Walker's Creek bv a wooden 
bridsfe. Concord street continues to Essex line, and 
just as the boundary stone is passed, a way to the 
right leads to the summer houses of Conomo Point, 
one of the fairest locations on our north shore ; or 
a few rods more and turning sharply to the left vou 
are soon on Essex avenue, which vou will reach earlier 
if you prefer to turn through Sumner street and ride 
past Andrews' cider mill, Burnham's saw mill and 
many pleasant homes and gardens. 



Pleasure Drives Aroiind Cape A?2n. 39 

On Essex avenue you ride easterly, and something 
like a mile and a half from the junction of Sumner 
street, past the Congregational church, the post-oflRce 
and the Universalist church, will bring you again to 
Concord street. If you wish to vary your ride, the 
rough but pleasant v^'ood-shaded path of Ferndale, 
the hillv Brav street, or Lincoln or Walker street, 
each have their beauties ; indeed, these rides through 
West Gloucester, "Around the Parish," to Wingaer- 
sheek Beach, and walks through her pastures and 
woodlands are among the pleasantest on Cape Ann. 

Mount Anne or Thompson's Mountain is one of 
the important features of West Gloucester. This is 
the highest elevation in this section of Essex County, 
and a fine view can be obtained from its summit. 
Just below lie the the woodland farms and homesteads 
of West Gloucester, and beyond, Gloucester harbor 
and cit}', Riverdale, Annisquam, Magnolia, Wingaer- 
sheek and Ipswich beaches, Essex and other neighbor- 
ing towns. To the south is Massachusetts bay, and 
beyond the dome of the State House, Bunker Hill 
with its monument, the blue hills of Milton, and as 
the eye follows the horizon w'estward, far away, may 
be seen Mount Wachusett ; northward the mountains 
of New Hampshire and the blue peak of Agamenti- 
cus ; and eastward the ocean with its white sails. 
The road from Essex avenue is lor the most part 
a pretty, shaded woodland path, al)Out two hundred 
yards from the post office. 






IA/EST GLOUCESTER has every indication of 
liecoming as popular and attractive as a seaside 
resort as any other of the standard resorts in and 
about Gloucester, for in its precincts are situated the 
famous Willoughby Park and Wingaersheek Beach, 
which remain in all their historical and marvellous 
beauty, no inroads upon their natural charms ha\ing' 
been permitted. 

To reach West Gloucester you drive along West- 
ern avenue, across the bridge, then turn to the right 
across Essex avenue, up the hill, passing the sightlv 
residence of William A. Pew, Esq., with its command- 
ing prospect ; also the charming residence and farm 
at Edgewood belonging to Mr. Samuel G. Pool. 
A little farther on is the extensive building" of the 
Russia Cement Co., and soon is seen the spacious 
ice house belonging to Mr. Francis W. Homans at 
Fernwood Lake, which it will be well to visit. A 
short ride further, and you may cross the railroad 
track on the right and leave the regular highway, 
passing through Fernwood with its many attractions. 



Pleasure Drives Aroiiitd Cape Ann. 41 

Here It is that Major David W. Low has made for 
himself a delightful suburban home, where he lives 
the year round, while most of the other buildings are 
for summer homes only. Among these are the res- 
idences of Charles H. Pew, Esq., George W. Somes, 
Miss Elizabeth Saville, Edwin O. Parsons, Hiram 
Rich, Elias P. Burnham, Joseph Rowe, AUie Somes, 
Joseph M. Parsons, Austin D. Elwell, Will Perkins, 
George Todd, D. S. Watson, Fred. Pearce, Mrs. 
Charles Pearce, William Presson, Edward L. RowCj 
Daniel H. Wallace, Charles Gardner, John D. Has- 
kell of Lynn, and William McKechnie of Boston. 
These houses nearly all front Little River, and excel- 
cellent facilities for boating, bathing, etc., are close 
at hand. 

Turnino; to the left near the residence of Charles 
H. Pew, you drive to Stanwood's Point, on which 
many summer cottages are built. The old Stan wood 
mansion is still standing, and is utilized by Mr. Fred. 
L. Stacy as a summer residence. The Point has 
many attractions, giving fine views of West Glouces- 
ter, Russ' Island, Presson's Point, Annisquam river 
and the citv proper. Retracing your way, you keep 
to the right, through Fernwood, and emerge a little 
beyond the railroad station, and turning to the right 
pass the head of Little River. The ancient house on 
the left is 200 years old, and for many years was used 
as a tavern. It is said to have been built by Jacob 



42 Pleasii7'e Drives Around Cape Ann. 

Davis, a grandson of one of the first settlers of that 
name on Cape Ann. 

Soon we reach Concord street on the right, and 
turning thereon travel directly to the seashore. This 
drive is full of interest. You pass by thriving farms 
and as you climb the hills get glimpses of varied and 
beautiful scenery. In due time we reach the resi- 
dence of Mr. Amos L. Garland, formerly the summer 
home of the lamented Charles P. Thompson, Esq., 
nearly opposite which is Atlantic avenue. This you 
enter, and the beauties of the drive grow more and 
more entrancing. Passing slowly up the hill, the top 
is gained and a scene of surpassing loveliness and 
beauty breaks upon the view. The waters of Annis- 
quam river, flowing from Ipswich bay to Gloucester 
harbor, wind in and out so cool and inviting ; Pearce's 
Island, Thurston's Point, Russ' Island, Wheeler's 
Point, Riverdale and Annisquam present their attrac- 
tions ; while the yachts on the river's bosom glide 
hither and thither, which w^ith the row boats and their 
merry occupants give life to the scene. Tlie eye 
never tires of the beautiful panorama of earth, sky 
and water, so charmingly intermingled. 

Descending the hill the road carries you along the 
river's bank, and you pass the farm house of Mr. 
Isaac J. Proctor, then the farm of Dr. George Morse 
with its attractive outlook, thence on by the stone pier 
1 200 feet in length, extending to low water mark, 
affording a landing at all times of tide, then the 




f 

I 
i 



I 



I 

k 



Plcasitrc Drives' Aroiiiid Cape Ann. 43 

quarry, and in a short time you are at the entrance 
of Willoughby Park. i\cljoining is the entrance to 
the Wingaersheek property owned by E. C. Hawkes, 
Esq., of Buffalo, New York, comprising some 400 
acres, which the owner is constantly improving and 
which bids fair of proving one of the finest watering 
places on the coast. Two elegant stone cottages and 
one of wood have been erected on the " Loaf," and 
the future of this magnificent piece of property- is 
most promising. 

Willoughby Park is a portion of the Coflin farm, 
which was settled by one Peter Coftin in 168S, his 
father purchasing it from a Londoner (England) 
named Willoughby ; it comprises about 200 acres 
of that charming and quaint village of West Glouces- 
ter, and is a continuation of the far-famed belt of 
fashionable seashore resorts — Nahant, Swampscott, 
Beverly Farms, Marblehead Neck, Manchester-by- 
the Sea, Magnolia, Pigeon Cove, and Bay View, ter- 
minating with Wingaersheek Beach on Ipswich Bav, 
at the mouth of Essex and Annisquam rivers. 

This high tract of land is rich in heavy wooded 
forests of birch, oak, pine and walnut; beautiful 
ravines, and towering hills and knolls, which give 
unobstructed views of Ipswich Bay with all its pictur- 
esque marine beautv, the winding rivers of Essex 
and Annisquam and the tall spires and roofs of the 
city of Gloucester. It is an ideal spot for a summer 
home, for vou can indulge in all the sports unre- 



44 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

strlcted to which the present generation are devoted, 
such as gunning, fishing, rowing, sailing and bathing, 
the facilities being unsurpassed; and for a bicycle or 
horse-back ride, what can be compared to that two- 
mile stretch of hard, white sand of VVingaersheek 
Beach ? 

The walks over the Park are delightful, for then 
you can observ^e and study the curious formation 
of rocks and granite, mount the grass-covered sand 
dunes and revel in their charms, gather the beautiful 
wild flowers and luscious wild berries which orrow in 
profusion, and gaze into the calm, unruffled depths 
of Sleepy Hollow Lake. 

The Park is but five minutes drive from Wino-aer- 
sheek Beach, which is one of the finest on the New 
England coast, being two miles long and 600 feet 
wide at low water; its hard, clean, sandy surface free 
from debris, looks like a great marble floor, and is 
admirably adapted for riding, walking and bathing, 
as one can readily conceive. One or two wrecks half 
buried in the sand awaken at once our imao^inations 
and poetic tendencies and give us immediate ideas 
of the nature of the "Storm King" when he visits 
this coast. 

It is fascinating to watch the waves rippling in, 
their white foam caressing the fair sands and wreath- 
ing them with snowy laces; at other times we gaze 
awe-struck, as we perceive the huge billows baffling 
with the elements or cannonading the fortress of the 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 45 

land, their echoes dying away behind the sand chmes, 
which gives a weird aspect to the whole scene. 

To the right may be seen old Annisquam and the 
cottages of that summer colony from Cambridge, 
Mass., and you get a glimpse of rocky Bay View and 
the broad Ipswich bay, of Newburyport and Ports- 
mouth, N. H., and even the distant shores of Maine; 
on a very clear day, towering high on the horizon. 
Mount Agamenticus may be seen, and the late Celia 
Thaxter's home, the Isles of Shoals. 

The Park's proximity to Boston is an added advan- 
tage, for in twenty minutes you can reach the West 
Gloucester station, and have the choice of eleven trains 
to carry you to any station on the Boston and Glouc- 
ester route throughout any summer day, for Boston 
is but 27 miles from West Gloucester, and only one 
hour and twenty minutes ride. 

A road in the Park, a mile and a quarter in length, 
furnishes a drive from Bray street to the Atlantic 
avenue entrance, also direct to the beach. You are 
near Gloucester also, and can reach the city proper 
by the electrics, which pass by Concord avenue about 
every fifteen minutes. You can also visit Essex, Ham- 
ilton, Beverly and Ipswich by this electric route. 

Therefore, let one go to Willoughby Park, wan- 
der from point to point in this beautiful preserve, and 
he will find in its environments and contiguous cities 
and towns all that will satiate the physical, pleasura- 
ble and spiritual needs of one looking for a first-class 



46 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ajui. 

summer resort. In this cliarming bit of country one 
will find beauty everywhere as the eye ranges far and 
wide over the landscape. 

As one finds in its bracing air that which is 
healthful, there is something also in the atmosphere 
that reaches to the mind and heart, that is inspiriting 
and helpful. Nature at all times is in communica- 
tion with an impressionable spirit, and here one may 
draw inspiration for grander achievements in life, and 
forget for the moment the dull rumble of the wheel 
of fortune and cling closer to the piu'er, sweeter, 
holier thoughts of one's inmost soul. 

This Park property is owned bv the Messrs. Procter 
Brothers and Dr. George Morse, of Gloucester, who 
will furnish descriptive circulars and plans to any 
who desire them. It is ready for purchasers. 




flr^oaod hl^e Cape. 



T\ ROUND the Cape," as it is called, gives one 
a fifteen mile drive replete with pleasure. 

Taking the Surfside as our starting point, if we 
choose, we progress along Washington street, passing 
the Boston & Maine Railroad station, and proceed 
through a section attractive by its neat and well kept 
residences, past Oak Grove Cemetery, the resting 
place of the noted singer, Emma Abbott Wetherell, 
and husband, and where a beautiful monument to 
their memory is one of the features of note in this 
city of the dead. 

Soon we get glimpses on the left of the Annisquam 
River near the bridsre with its fleet of yachts at anchor, 
a portion of Wolf Hill and Russ' Island, with Little 
River and Fern wood ; then on the right are the hand- 
some residences of City Clerk John J. Somes, Mr. 
Horace A. Smith, Hon. William W. French, Messrs. 
Augustus F. Cunningham, David B. Smith, Wilbur 
Locke, Ezra Phillips, Alphonso Tarr ; and now the 
Ellery homestead, the oldest house in Gloucester, 
memorable as being the residence of Rev. John White, 
dawns upon our view at the head of the creek. It is 



4S Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

an old-time dwelling-house indeed, for it was erected 
in 1 717, and when shown over its interior no doubts 
will be entertained as to its antiquity. 

Next we pass the "Green," another historical 
spot in Gloucester's annals, then the Gilbert Hospital, 
the public gift of another of Gloucester's generous 
hearted citizens, the late Addison Gilbert. Here are 
the Babson, Allen, Low, Brown and Pearce residen- 
ces and estates, too^ether with others wdiich have 
sheltered the old and highly respected Gloucester 
families, and they with commendable pride keep them 
in good condition and occupy them ; thus they are 
fitting memorials of the struggle it cost to place Glou- 
cester on its present strong foundation. 

We are now in Riverdale, so appropriately named, 
and pass the massive ledge of granite known as the 
"Poles." Reachins: the Mill, wdiich for manv vears 
has continued its grinding, a fine and picturesque view 
is ol^tained of the water-course known as the Mill 
Creek, and from which its motive power is derived. 
It is fascinating to watch it as it curls in aiid out abo\'e 
the dam, rolling up beyond the Babson farm to the 
Allen farm with the ebbing of the tide, while below 
it courses to the Annisquam River. 

Here is a monument erected to the memorv of 
those from this section who laid down their lives for 
their country. To the left is the attractive road lead- 
ing to Wheeler's Point, a popular summer resort 
of many well known campers. Slowly up the hill 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 40 

we w, by the M. E. Church, and while ascendino; tlic 
hill we must not fail to notice the large boulder near 
Hillside Hall, which has a very perfect resemblance 
of a dog's head, as seen at a short distance. The 
nose points to the eastward, and a crack in the ridge 
gives an excellent fac simile of the animal's eye, which 
appears as if closed, wdiile the general shape of the 
rock is a realistic representation. Then as we drive 
we catch charming views of Ipswich Bay, sand dunes 
and rivers; we pass through the famous Willow 
Road, by Sunset Cottage, owned by Mr. William G. 
Brown, thence by Hodgkins' mill, with its picturesque 
settings, note Dr. Wetherell's villa and its lovelv sit- 
uation, then reach Goose Cove, and dri\ing briskly 
soon reach the bridge at Lobster Cove, which we 
cross, and the pretty village with its Indian name, 
Annisquam, is before us, where much will be found 
to engage attention. 

At the first crossing of the bridge, a fine view of 
Wheeler's Point, Pearce's Island with its shores dotted 
with summer houses, and the marshes and creeks on 
the opposite side flanked by the West Gloucester hills, 
presents scenes of surpassing beauty, and we at last 
realize why artists in numbers innumerable just revel 
in their profession while here. 

Close down to the river's side, at Annisquam Point, 
built on the solid rock, is the quaint cottage of Mr. 
George J. Marsh. Its location is unsurpassed for 
catching the cool breezes and for the grand sweep 



5o Pleasure Drives Around Cape Aiut, 

of maritime loveliness afforded by the river and bay, 
and }'ou can step into your dory or pleasure boat 
directly from the rocks. The house is fitted up ex- 
pressly for pleasure and comfort — a combination 
devoutly wished for in this world of ours, and here 
you have it. Swinging beds and other devices for 
comfort invite when weary, and all that is needed for 
genuine pleasure and restfulness is here dispensed 
with lavish hospitality. It is the ideal spot for keen 
enjoyment, being close at hand to the fishing grounds 
and directly in the path of the birds as they take their 
southward flight. The interior arrangements are so 
quaint and comfortable that we feci perfectly at home 
beneath its hospitable roof. 

Norwood Heig^hts is a most attractive summer 
resort, having been laid out and improved for build- 
ing lots in the summer of 1S95. Several dwellings 
are already erected and others have been contracted 
for. It is most advantageously located in the centre 
of the village, very easy of access, and commands 
a fine view of Ipswich Bay and its beautiful surround- 
ings. It is under the management of Mr. Frank 
Bott and Mr. Fred. Norwood. 

The visit to the Cambridge settlement and the 
Grand View" House and the other famous hosteleries 
here gives opportunities to obtain magnificent views 
of river and ocean scenery and make such delightful 
impressions upon us that we feel compelled to linger 
and admire, but as we are bound around the Cape we 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 



promise ourselves to come again and oft to this quaint 
and attractive retreat, and pursue our way through 
the viUage, with its dwellings and quiet, inviting 
appearance, reaching the road leading to the Cove, 
passing the Annisquam Universalist Church, which 
stands like a sentinel in white at the junction of the 
roads and reflecting great credit upon the sturdy and 
self-sacrificing men and women of 1S31, upwards of 
sixty-hve years ago, whose efforts built it, and on a 
Sabbath it would be a pleasant place to visit and join 
in the services. 

Continuing a short distance we approach the beau- 
tifid summer residence of Col. and Mrs. Jonas II. 
French. The gate is wide open inviting us to drive 
in, and we do so and enjov the delights of a well kept 
lawn and garden, which in summer time abounds in 
beautiful flowers, some very rare, affording delight 
to the manv who avail themselves of the hospitable 
spirit of these dwellers by the sea, who are so willing 
to share that which affords so much pleasure to them 
with the public. 

We pass from here to the grounds of the late Gen. 
B. F. Butler's home by the seashore, enjoying the 
beautiful maritime picture so lavishly exhibited, and 
are soon on the main road again, where the sound 
of the clicking of the drills of the Bay View stone 
workers betokens busy life and activity. 

Bay View is a pleasant village, having a Methodist 
church, which is well sustcuued. It has an artificial 



52 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

harbor made of immense blocks of stone, serving as 
a breakwater. There is also a United States Life 
Saving Station at Davis' Neck. 

We now approach Lanesville by ascending a hill, 
on the brow of which stands the Catholic Church of 
the Sacred Heart. The village has a neat, restful 
appearance. Fishing and quarrying business form 
the principal sources of industry, and a goodly num- 
ber of tourists enjoy the fine scenery and the healthful 
sea breezes. The people are most hospitable and 
social. It has a Congregational and a Universalist 
church, good school accommodations, and is a pro- 
gressive place, and one which is increasing in popu- 
lation and importance. 

Following the road as it winds along through the 
village centre, past the churches and the stores, hear- 
ing the click of the drills and occasionally the report 
of the blasts on the quarries, noticing the huge loads 
of granite being drawn toward the granite wharf of 
the harbor, which, like all others in this section, was 
the result of patient labor, the huge blocks of granite 
being piled up as a breakwater, the waves often prov- 
ing so powerful as to start them from their resting 
places — we jog along through the village of Folly 
Cove and then to Pi«-eon Cove. 

As we come up the valley past the hill-environed 
and pretty Glen Cove, the first prominent object that 
greets our vision to the right is the beautiful residence 
of Mr. and Mrs. J. E. Hartwell, who have given this 



Pleasure Drives Around Cafe Ann. 5;^ 

charming place the poetic name of " Interlodge." 
On the left the most prominent object is the old Bab- 
son farm house on the heights. The approach to the 
house is through an avenue of ancient elms that afford 
a grateful shade in the warm summer days and lend 
an additional charm to the surroundings. This house, 
with all its valuable land, some seventy or more acres, 
is the property of the Rockport Granite Company. 
An avenue on this property, which winds around by 
the ocean and through the fields, makes a walk or 
a drive in this vicinity one unsurpassed on the Cape 
for its ofrand view on sea and land. 

Passing on we take a view of the beautiful Sunset 
Hill. This is a favorite resort for many of the sum- 
mer visitors when day is departing to watch the last 
linoferinof radiance of the settino^ sun as it flushes wave 
and shore. Visitors to this vicinity will observe an 
ancient and weather-beaten gambrel-roofed house 
near Halibut Point ; it dates far back into the misty 
past, and was in the early days the home of Samuel 
Gott, and is still occupied by his descendants ; it is 
on high ground, and the view is a beautiful one. 
This old house and its picturesque surroundings have 
often been the subject for the artist's pencil and brush. 

On the opposite side of the street, on an elevation 
overlooking the woods and valleys, as well as the 
waters of Ipswich bay, are a number of pretty sum- 
„ mer residences. 

From this point we turn down a slight declivity 



£^4 Pleasure Drives Aro7ind Cape A??n. 

and soon are among the avenues of Andrews' point; 
they were hiid out by Messrs. Phillips and Babson, 
and contain many miles of very fine roads unsurpassed 
for walking, carriage or bicycle riding. Turning in 
on the main avenue, the first house of note we see is 
Oak Knoll, the elegant residence of Mr. Edwin Can- 
ney, who, witli his family, resides here throughout 
the year. Another charming house built for perma- 
nent residence is the "Haven," the beautiful home 
of the late Mrs. Corinne H. Bishop. 

Two of the most charming places on the Cape, 
if not on the Massachusetts coast, are the homes and 
their surroundings of Mr. John vStowell — beautiful 
" Meadowcliff " — and the Way villa, the home of the 
late J. M. Way, Esq. The latter is an elegant house 
built of granite, and is a very imposing structure. 

Prof. Merrill, of the Boston Latin vSchool, has 
a beautiful residence here ; from the broad piazzas 
of his home can be seen the town of Rockport and 
also a grand view of Pigeon Hill, as well as the 
breakwater and Avery's Rock, of which the poet 
Whitter wrote that touching poem, "The Swan Song 
of Parson Avery." 

Other beautiful cottJiges are the Frothingham, 
Chapin, Putnam, Barber, Wood, Willey, Emery, 
Thalemhier, Brooks, Brewer, Brewster, Millett, Phil- 
lips, Taft, Hosmer, Smith, and many others. 

We hurriedly look over the pretty cottages and 
admire the s^raceful winding avenues, and soon are in 



i 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 55 

the vicinity of the hotels, the largest of which is the 
Pigeon Cove House. In 1S66 jMrs. Norwood retired 
from the house, after keeping it acceptably manv 
years. Mrs. Ellen S. Robinson took the house in 
1S71, as owner and hostess, and soon moved the old 
house from its site and built on the same spot a larger 
and more attractive one. It is a spacious and conven- 
ient building, and enjoys an excellent reputation. 

In the same spring, too, the Ocean View House 
was erected and immediately opened for visitors. It 
is but a few minutes' w^alk from the Pigeon Cove 
House, and commands a tine view of the ocean. A 
large annex was subsequently built to this hotel. 

Down on the extreme point, in a grand location, 
is situated the Linwood Hotel, and the ocean breezes 
and view^s enjoyed from its piazzas are much appre- 
ciated durinof the heated term. 

A short distance from the hotels are boarding 
houses, among the more prominent being the Glen 
Acre, the Rose Lawm, Sunny Side, Sea View^ and 
Cedar Cottage, wdiile many others take lodgers. 

But we must not -miss the old Garrison house, said 
to be one of the oldest (if not the oldest) houses on 
Cape Ann. It stands in a field bordering on Granite 
street, with some grand old trees in the yard. But 
a part of the edifice is more ancient than its venerable 
neighbors. The tradition is that this part was erected 
in 1693 by tw^o young men as a safe retreat for their 
mother who had been proclaimed a witch. So far 



56 Plcas7irc Drives Around Cafe Anli^ 

from the settlement of Salem, hidden in the deep 
woods, the misunderstood and persecuted woman was 
beyond reach of injury. 

Joshua Norwood enlarged and improved tliis 
house and for some time made it his home. In 1740 
he left it and moved to Gap Head ; since then the old 
house has been several times modified bv additions 

•J 

and adornings, so that it is admired for its comely, 
modern as well as its venerable features. Its thick 
oaken walls, low rooms, great corner posts and cross- 
lieams, ample chimnev and small window-frames, 
make it a pleasing contrast with the showy l)ut less 
substantial dwellings built in the present dav. Its 
extensions and \erandas overrun with woodbine and 
ilowering vines, and its dark paint, like weather stains, 
are in harmonv with its older parts and its picturesque 
surroundings. 

Let us now drive down Powsil Hill to the snug 
and safe harbor of Pig^eon Cove. This harbor was 
badly damaged by the great storm of 1S41. Tlie wall 
(where now is the substantial breakwater) gave way 
and fell, and most of the vessels in the harbor were 
destroyed. Many marked improvements have been 
made at this harbor of late years. The Cape Ann 
Granite Company, of which Col. Jonas H. French 
is the head, have steam cars running direct from their 
inland quarries to the wharf in this harbor, and are 
doing a large business shipping stone to the break- 
water and elsewhere. The Rockport Granite Com- 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann, 57 

paiiy, vS. N. Waite & vSon, Mr. Edwin Canney, Mr. 
C. H. Cleaves, and others, also have many large 
vessels here to load almost daily, in fair weather, for 
New York, Philadelphia and other ports. This little 
village has five very pretty churches, which speaks 
well for its residents. 

A few steps westerly from the harbor on a ledge 
overlooking the cove and bay, is a very ancient hab- 
itation called the Old Castle. Its back roof descends 
to within a few feet of the ground, and its upper story 
juts over the lower, in the manner of a block house. 
Its craggy site commands a fine prospect far out 
over the sea. 

Some fiftv-six vears ag^o the followino^ litterateurs 
of note sought this localitv, namely : Richard H. 
Dana, Sr., who was the first visitor, and being so 
enthusiastic over its charms soon had his friend, "The 
Nestor of Poets," William Cullen Bryant, interested 
in the spot. He went there and reveled in its varied 
scenery. Then Ralph Waldo Emerson visited the 
place for a week, and on his return wrote that familiar 
poem, " Seashore," which gives one such an excellent 
idea of the favorable and delightful impressions the 
most distinguished of American essayists experienced 
while there and how thev can be described in poetical 
language. 

Thus since 1840 this village has been a most 
attractive resort, owing to its historical and natural 
points of interest. 



^8 PleasiiJ'c Drives Around Cape Anii. 

*Major George S. Merrill, of Lawrence, expresses 
his ideas of Pigeon Cove thus : "Perhaps in no spot 
alons: the coast has nature been so lavish of her beau- 
ties as at Pigeon Cove ; the wildest rocky headlands 
confront the incoming waves from the Atlantic, while 
stretches of silvery beach glimmer between the crags, 
and a bit inland is a mighty forest through which 
paths have been cleared for such distances that one 
may wander from the busy village of summer saun- 
terers into absolutely unbroken solitude." 

Another very attractive place is Pigeon Hill. A 
N'isit to tliis eminence will be repaid by one of the 
most charming of views. Some very pretty homes 
are along- the base of this hill, on the wav to Rock- 
port; among them are the Eames mansion; Elm- 
wood, the residence of Mr. A. Goodwin's family; 
Uppercliff, the beautiful home of Mr. C. H. Cleaves 
and familv ; and Spring Cottage, a most charming 
place owned and occupied by Mr. Jason L. Curtis 
and family. Eglantine Lawn is another charming 
place by the seaside, the residence of Mr. Alonzo 
Tuttle. Manv of these residences are occupied the 
entire year. 

Another place of note is the stone bridge over the 
main road. Here one may stop to take a look down 
into the great granite quarries that can be seen from 
here, and wonder at the amount of stone that must 
have been quarried from the great pits. 

The next attractive place ere we reach Rockport 



PleasKre Drives Around Cape A7171. ^O) 

is the picturesque Knowlton estate, with its fine old 
homestead and beautiful fields and mountains. 

Thus Pigeon Cove has furnished summer tourists 
with a restful and healthful retreat, where ocean 
views, seaside rambles, good air from the balsamic 
pines, all produce for them pure enjoyment. 

There are many charming woodland walks in this 
vicinity which afford great pleasure to the summer 
visitors, who turning directly from the view of old 
ocean, can in a short time be entirely out of sight 
of water among the tangled paths of the grand old 
woods. Pigeon Cove attracts a fine class of visitors, 
and abounds in many attractions which render it 
a most desirable place to pass the heated term. 

The drive around the Cape continues through the 
town of Rockport, once a suburb of Gloucester, but 
in the year 1840 it w\as set off as a separate township. 
This town is ajDpropriately named, and although large 
quantities of the quarried granite have been carried 
from here, great ledges are still to be seen everywhere. 
The constant quarrying of the granite has left deep 
ravines and abysses open to view. 

Rockport has a pretty beach, which is utilized as 
a drying place for the sea moss, which the gatherers 
of this aquatic plant use every season, and which 
beach is passed on this drive. When the sea moss 
is arranged in various places on the beach and raked 
out over the smooth white surface of the sand, the 
varied colorings of the moss are most charming to 



6o Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

examine. This moss is gathered and sold to sea moss 
dealers, and makes a most delicious and nutritious 
blanc mange. 

Rockport was once a mill city, as will be seen by 
tlie ruins of the cotton mill, which are also passed 
on this drive, but possibly its greatest notoriety has 
been gained by its great quarries and its beautiful 
summer resort, Land's End. 

After passing the beach we continue along the 
business portion of Main street, turning into Mt. 
Pleasant street, and driving until we reach Land's 
End, one of the outermost points of the Cape, which 
abounds in historic lore and grand scenery, and at 
which point that fine hostelry, Turk's Head Inn, and 
the many fine cottag'es of its summer residents are 
situated ; while just off the shore is Thacher's Island 
with its twin lighthouses. 

Turk's Head Inn preserves in its name the historic 
story of Capt. John Smith of Pocahontas fame, who 
when sailing on a voyage of discovery about the year 
i6i3, named the three islands off the outermost point 
of Cape Ann the Three Turks' Heads, in remem- 
brance of tlie three Turks he decapitated, single- 
handed, in a combat at Constantinople. 

The Inn's broad piazzas, so cool and inviting, give 
fine views of forest and ocean, and the winding ave- 
nues are adorned with elegant homes of the summer 
tourist. 

The Inn gained a good portion of its popularity 



I 




OLD TREE, ROCKPORT ROAD. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 6i 

when under the stewardship of Mr. A. \, Pocock, 
formerly steward of the Algonquin Club of Boston. 

Leaving Land's End we return by the same route 
we came, pass through the streets of the town again, 
and turning into Main street are soon leaving Rock- 
port behind, and descending Great Hill pass Beaver 
Dam Farm and note the stone structure on the farm 
land bearing the inscription, "Beaver Dam Farm, 
1S32." Cape Pond and its fine picnic grove are soon 
passed, and the tree growing out of a rock (of which 
an illustration is given), the picturesque residence of 
the late Hon. John J. Babson, Gloucester's historian, 
also the fine residence of Hon. B. F. Cook, unsur- 
passed views of the Bass Rocks settlement and beau- 
tiful \iews of farm land are among the points of 
interest we should see when driving through the 
"Farms." 

After passing the Hildreth school house we turn 
to the right and continue along Main street, and West- 
ern avenue, till we reach our starting point, the Surf- 
side, having enjoyed a ride of continual change of 
scenery and marked beauty. 



J)piV0 ho /lar^el^e^tcp. 



HAVING basked in the rays of Magnolia's natural 
charms and cultivated elegance, although but 
a brief description will be given here, l)e prepared, 
when you take this drive, to view a still more fash- 
ionable and highly popular summer resort some three 
miles beyond Magnolia, bearing the old English 
name, Manchester. 

This town celebrated its 250th anniversary in 
1895, and doubtless in consequence of that occurrence 
much of its early history has become familiar to 
almost every one, as so much was written regarding 
the event, and the celebration was so largely attended 
by the resident tourists and people from all the sur- 
rounding cities. 

But its importance and popularitv as a summer 
resort are the topics of interest. Manchester has been 
the summer home particularlv of wealthy Bostonians 
for the past fifty years, and as it grew into promi- 
nence tourists from all parts of the country succumbed 
to its attractions. Thus it has naturally made rapid 
strides in valuation, and popularitv as a fashionable 
summer resort. In fact, the demand for property at 
Manchester the past few years has been so great that 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 63 

at times it was practically impossible to rent any <^oocl 
houses wilh a view of the sea, and a numljer of peo- 
ple gave up going there for the season. There is 
a great demand for land, and very few lots for sale. 
The success of the Essex County Cluli, together with 
low taxes, largely explains the increasing popularity 
of Manchester. 

Before reaching the town, the intervening road 
between Magnolia and Manchester is a forest road 
of stately trees and tall densely growing shrubbery, 
and when riding beneath this primeval growth one 
experiences a sensation most delightful. 

The town of Manchester has a most pleasant and 
advantageous position, being situated on the north 
shore of Massachusetts bay. It is but twenty-four 
miles from Boston, nine from Salem and seven from 
Gloucester. Essex and Hamilton are to the north 
of it, Beverlv and Hamilton to the west. Thus so 
centrally located, the drives it affords the tourist are 
of a most enjoyable nature. 

Manchester's coast line is remarkable for its rug- 
ged appearance, and together with its forest covered 
valleys, it has afforded picturesque sites for the costly 
residences which have been erected, enhanced still 
more by the finely laid out grounds on which the taste 
and skill of the landscape gardener have been put 
forth. 

Here is the famous "wSinging Beach," so named 
because at times the washing of the sea as it creeps 



4 
64 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

over the sandy shore sends forth a musical sound that 
at once strikes the listener as peculiar. From this 
beach is seen the waters of Massachusetts bay, which 
present ever changing marine views. 

Here, also, is the famous Masconomo House, one 
of the finest on the North Shore, preserving in its 
name the Indian legendry of Manchester. This hotel 
at once brings to mind the noted actress, Agnes Booth 
Schoeffel, to whom this hotel became an inheritance 
from her late noted husband, and where she spends 
her summers, together with the large number of celeb- 
rities in all the professional circles of life, and to 
whom this famous hotel has catered for years. 

Here also is the cottage of the noted veteran actor, 
Joseph Proctor, which rests half way up the hill 
above the railroad track. 

If you are a devotee to golf, tennis or yachting, 
your desire to visit Manchester will be aroused at 
once, for here are the Essex Count v Club's famous 
"folf links and tennis courts and the Manchester 
Yacht Club's house. 

A word in regard to the E^sex County Club. It 
has gained great prominence in the world of sports, 
as the turf at its golf links is reputed to be the best on 
this side of the water. Mr. Joseph Lloyd, their golf 
instructor, is the well known winner of the champion- 
ship at Chicago. Mr. J. M. Mackerell is his assist- 
ant. The tennis tournaments of the Club, tlieir 
dinner parties and balls are of the " swellest " type, 



Pleasure Drives Aro/tnd Cape An?i. 65 

and thus the "smart" set from all the neiifliborinsr 
resorts all flock to Manchester and revel in this Club's 
social generosity. 

The Manchester Yacht Club lias as good a situation 
as any yacht club in the country, and as Hne a mem- 
bership — some 215 or more members, the cream of 
the North vShore. Some of the Corinthian and East- 
ern Yacht Clubs are among its members, and as the 
harl)or commissioners gave the Clul) permission to 
anchor floats in front of their club house, and have 
dredged and straightened the channel, these are two 
important factors in its favor. Regattas are held 
every season, and the social functions at this Doric 
club house, with its elegant furnishings, are of the 
most fl/i de slccle type, and have a tendency to out- 
ri\al the Essex County Club. 

Among the other objects of interest in the town is 
the flne Memorial Building and Library erected and 
donated to the town by T. Jefferson Coolidge, Esq. 
The building is located on Union street near the 
center of the town, and is constructed of cut Ashler 
irranite with seam faces — that is, the stone was taken 
from the quarries where it joined the occasional seams 
found in the ledge — the stone being of a handsome 
red color. The eastern end of the building is occu- 
pied by the town library, and the western <t\\i\ by the 
local Post of the Grand Army. Dividing the two 
sections is a sort of open partition of old English oak 
inlaid with £:enuine ancient carvings brought from 



66 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

across the water and centuries old. The Memorial 
Hall contains two bronze tablets to the memory of the 
soldiers and sailors of the town. 

One of the handsomest residences here is that 
of U. S. Senator James McMillan, of Detroit. It is 
called "Eagle Head," an estate of 78 acres, and 
valued at $200,000. The property, besides bordering 
on the ocean, has a long frontage on the Gloucester 
and Beverly road, and is adjacent to the grounds 
of the Essex County Club. 

Among the other residences which attract the 
attention of visitors are the picturesque buildings on 
Norton's Head, erected by the venerable Rev. Dr. 
Bartol, of Boston, including the Riv^er house, the 
Fort house, the Barn house, and others of quaint and 
fantastic shapes. 

On Gale's Point is one of the prettiest drives in 
the town. Among- the notable summer residences 
in this section are those of Gen. A. P. Rockwell, 
George D. Howe, F. M. Stanwood, Richard Stone, 
George M. Black, J. Warren Merrill, the J. L. Bre- 
mer estate, G. A. Putnam and Charles A. Reed. 

Other prominent summer places are those of Rus- 
sell Sturgis, Judge Ricker of Denver, C. E. Cotting 
and John A. Burnham, and the Grews, Wiggles- 
worths and Dodges near Eagle Head, T. Jefferson 
Coolidge and Ernest Longfellow at Coolidge Point, 
and the Boardman estate, and Henry L. Higginson, 
the well-known Boston banker, at West Manchester. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Aujt. 67 

Here also is a chapel erected by the Unitarians 
of the summer colony, and in which they take great 
pride, the sister of President Elliott of Harvard Col- 
lege being one of the trustees. A convenient Epis- 
copal chapel is also erected near the Masconomo 
House. 

If you delight to view beautiful scenery, summer 
homes equally as beautiful, fine equipages, and all 
else that signifies immense w^ealth, great culture and 
"smart" social life, drive to Manchester and you will 
find it there. 

The drive from Gloucester is both picturesque and 
delightful, along Western avenue, passing Magnolia 
and riding directly on. A view of the ocean may be 
obtained a greater part of the way, and the ride is 
replete with pleasure. 




j^i^oand hl^e "^\^ +leatep.' 



QNOTHER very popular drive is that known as 
around the "Big Heater." You start along 
Western avenue, turning into Essex avenue and pass 
through West Gloucester, continuing on until you 
reach Essex, when you turn to the left and find 
a delightful drive through the woods a great portion 
of the distance — the very quintessence of country 
scenery. You arrive at Manchester, and the contrast 
presented on the drive to Gloucester, which gives 
such fine sea views, spoken of in the drive to Man- 
chester, renders it an outing long to be remembered 
with pleasure. The distance is some seventeen miles, 
and the drive should be taken leisurely in order to be 
fully enjoyed. 



\^ Old Roel^[soph Road. 



1 



N addition to the drives which have been men- 
tioned, Gloucester abounds in most delightful 
jp walks, where the lover of nature can revel in the 
beauties so lavishly bestowed. Among- these walks 
is one which teems with most beautiful scenery and 
\. affords much pleasure. It is known as the Old Rock- 
port Road. 

In the days agone it was the travelled highway be- 
tween Gloucester and Rockport, and is entered from 
the city proper by passing up Maplewood avenue 
near its junction with Poplar street, on the right 
hand side after passing the Gloucester Net and Twine 
. Company's buildings. It can also be reached on 
Washington street by passing through Derby, Grove 
■ or Poplar streets into Maplewood avenue. The 
road was at one time passable for vehicles, but 
it has been out of repair so long that there is not 
much comfort with a vehicle, Init it is very good for 
horseback riding. 

You pass along, oftentimes pausing to get glimpses 
of the fine scenery of the city on one hand and the 
^rrand old forests on tiie other. It carries with it also a 



yo Pleasure Drives Around Cape Aim. 

view of the famed Dogtown,~to which alhision is 
made in another chapter. The road winds in and 
out 'in a serpentine fashion, now^'ascending to a 
sightly elevation then descending into' the valley. 
Now and then you pass an old cellar betokening that 
some familv lived their lives here and experienced the 
joys and sorrows pertaining to the earthly existence, 
but now all is solitude and nature fully asserts her 
sway. 

x\fter sauntering a mile or more, you will observe 
to the right a high elevation known as Railcut hill, 
which is the second highest land in the city, coming 
next to Thompson's Mountain, West Gloucester. It 
will be known by the tripod erected thereon by the 
triangulation survey and forms a prominent landmark. 
Here a magnificent ocean view is obtained which will 
well repay one for the walk, and you enjoy one of the 
grandest outlooks which is afforded in Gloucester's 
fair borders. 

After feastinof the eve on the maritime \iew and 
inhaling the cool breeze, the walk can be resumed at 
leisure, stopping occasionally to pick some of the 
luscious berries, if it is the berry season, and in due 
time vou will reach the main Rockport road, where 
you can board the electrics and enjoy the homeward 
ride through the Farms, taking in Little Good Harbor 
Beach, Bass Rocks and the beautiful maritime pan- 
orama which this section affords. 



ppiVe ho Po^hoWQ. 



TT S the present age teems with Interest In all that 
concerns the days of the Revolutionary War, 
and prominent people, with equally prominent ances- 
try, deem it an honor to swell the membership of the 
societies bearing the names of "Sons of the Revolu- 
tion" and " Colonial Dames"; and as human nature 
finds no greater impetus for the awakening of the 
weird, fanciful and speculative characteristics of their 
compositions than when viewing a deserted village, 
a fast decaying ancient house, a ruined castle or a 
lonely spot, therefore do not forget to visit Glouces- 
ter's "Deserted Village" of Revolutionary fame bear- 
ing the peculiar name of "Dogtown." There are 
various routes by which it can be reached, both for 
the convenience of the pedestrian and those bent on 
a pleasure drive. 

One of the recent local publications is a little vol- 
ume entitled "In the Heart of Cape Ann, or the Story 
of Dogtown," by Charles E. Mann, finely Illustrated 
by Catherine M. Follansbee. This little book gives 
descriptions of the famous characters of Dogtown, 
a map with the cellars and houses indicated and the 



^2 Pleasure Drives Arou7id Cape Ann. 

routes by which they can be reached, and for a thor- 
ough knowledge of Dogtown this vohuiie will be 
indispensable. The price is but 50 cents, and it ma}- 
be found at the bookstores. Some of the approaches 
to Dogtown enumerated will not be amiss here. 

Driving up Washington street past the railroad 
station, we soon reach the old historic Ellerv house 
and "Meeting House Green," with Poplar street on 
the right hand side, into which we turn, then into 
Cherry street and into Dogtown. Bv Mann's map 
you have indicated all the cellars and sites of the 
houses of the famous settlers and witches of Dogtown, 
which are significant of the sorrow the Revolution 
brought to this settlement. 

Another route is as follows : If you are in River- 
dale near Goose Cove, turn into the road at the Cove, 
pass Dr. Wetherell's villa, where soon can be seen 
that curious rock, the "Whale's Jaw." This is 
a very pretty drive, and vou descend Pilgrim Hill to 
the main road, which vou pursue, turning to the left, 
and soon reach Stanwood street, which also leads past 
many of these famous cellars. 

But whv is this deserted villaofe called Dog^town, 
I hear you query. Tradition sa3's that when the call 
for enlistment in the armv and navv of the Revolution 
came, our sturdv ancestors took up arm?; and bidding 
their brave wives farewell, departed for the scene 
of battle, many of them nevermore to return. 

Then the widows each procured a dog as their 



Pleasure Drives Aroimd Cape Aiin, 



/>-) 



future protectors, and that gave rise to the name, and 
the herbs and berries which thev gathered on these 
lone hills were carried to market and yielded them 
their daily bread. 

Thus the ancient cellars, grass-grown roads and 
the weird traditions of the witches who lived there, 
still impart to the observer an intense melancholy 
interest in this deserted hamlet, and as you wander 
over Dogtown you will fully realize with the poet, — 

" Now the sounds of population fail : 
No cheerful murmurs fluctuate the gale: 
No busy steps the grass-grown foot way tread : 
But all the flowinir flush of life is fled." 




cjf ciP^y'*) Outing on ^nn\<^<^uarf] 



^^NE of the most charming experiences to be 
enjoyed on Cape Ann is an outing on Anni- 
squam river. You start from the outer harbor with 
the tide at half flood, in a comfortable row-boat or 
steam launch, having some one with you who is famil- 
iar with the river. 

Enterin": the canal which connects the outer har- 
bor with the river, you pass along by the well known 
" Donefudo:in«:" landin":, with the brick almshouse 
and farm on the right, then under the railroad bridge, 
and the busy scene of the Cape Ann Anchor Works, 
Drop Forge Company's Works and Cape Ann Shoe 
Company's manufactory looms up on the river's bank. 
Keeping along on the bosom of the river. Wolf Hill 
attracts our attention, and the gardens and dwellings 
of ward six present a pleasing appearance. 

As we are out for the day we will not hurry, but 
take our time, and instead of keeping down river, we 
steer our boat into Little river and navigate that 
beautiful stream. Russ' island forms tlie right bank 
going up, and tlie summer residences — Biskie Head, 



Pleasiu-c Drives Arou7zd Cape Ann. 



/D 



belonging to W. J. Maddocks ; Riverside, the cozy 
cottage of George Steele — form attractive pictures ; 
we then pass on up to the head of the river at West 
Gloucester, passing Stanwood's Point and Fernwood 
on the left with their colonies of summer residents, 
and Presson's Point on the right, both of which are 
alluded to more fully in the "Drive Around West 
Gloucester." You keep along to the extreme limit, 
which carries you to the harbor on Essex avenue, then 
retrace your way, entering Annlsquam river opposite 
Wolf Hill. 

Wolf Hill is a magnificent spot for a summer's 
sojourn, it being high and airy, with exquisite views 
of river and bay, with all the comforts of a summer 
residence, and only ten minutes ride to the post office 
and within seven minutes walk of the electrics, which 
pass the head of Marsh street every half hour. 

A spot of clean wdiite sand lies right off Wolf Hill, 
comprising several acres. This is the grand bathing 
place. It is easilv accessible, and at half tide or low 
tide can be utilized, and forms a great attraction. 
Large numbers of summer residents avail themselves 
of this great privilege. There are also splendid bath- 
ing facilities in the cove next to Hodgkins' landing. 

Amons" those having: residences here are Messrs. 
Thaddeus E. Friend, Charles A. Mason, George H. 
Procter, Henry Center, Melvin Haskell, Charles 
C. Boardman, Isaac A. Smith, Charles II. Boynton, 
Frank H. Shute, Loring B. Haskell, Bennett Griffin, 



^6 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 

Frank O. Griffin, Howard Haskell, Edward S. Grif- 
fin, Walter L. Rowe, David O. Frost, Fitz J. Babson, 
Simeon A. Bnrnham, Mrs. Lucy E. Friend (Glen- 
niere), and Mrs. Addison Center of Melrose. 

The next elevation, separated by a little cove, is 
a most charming spot. Nestling at the base is vShiloh 
Lodge, for many years the summer resort of the 
lamented George W. Smith and family, of Boston, 
whose annual coming rendered it extremely pleasant 
for the man}' friends who were here entertained iu 
a most roval manner. Mr. Smith was amonsf the 
iirst to find out the beauties and comforts of Anni- 
squam river as a summer resort, and he built a house 
on Russ' Island, which was destroyed by fire, after- 
wards removing to this spot. The cottage has been 
greatly enlarged and improved, and is now owned by 
Dr. F. W. A. Bero^enofren of Lvnn. Other cottag-es 
in tlie vicinitv are those of Mrs. Charles H. Hildreth, 
Messrs. Calvin F. Hopkins, Fitz E. Oakes, William 
H. Dennen, Sidnev S. Svlvester, and Frank Whitte- 
more of Cambridge. Next on the same side is tlie 
famous Montezuma Camp, owned ])v Mr. Frank 
Stan wood. 

Then crossing: over to Russ' Island is the cottagfe 
of Mr. James Pettigrew, also the Spring and Wharf 
cottages, and those of Messrs. Buckingham and 
Chamberlain. The little island next appearing is 
in a cozv position, and is occu])ied l)y Mr. Richard 
Perkins. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 77 

Then you draw near to ■Merchant's Island, for- 
merly Pearce's, owned by Mr. Simeon Merchant, 
familiarly known as "Uncle Simeon." Here is a tine 
picnic gro\-e which is brought into frequent use dur- 
ing the summer months. There are some twentv-five 
cottages on the island, which are let each season to 
families from the city proper, Charlestown, Chelsea 
and contiguous cities, and solid comfort is taken at 
this well known retreat. There is fun galore, and 
those who pass one season there are anxious to go 
asrain. 

o 

Opposite the island and midway of the ri\er is 
a sand-spit an eighth of a mile in length, which at 
low tide forms one of the finest bathing places imag- 
ina])le, being perfectly safe and the water pure and 
invigorating. 

The scene from this point is charming in the 
extreme. Across the river at Brown's landing is 
a settlement of cottages known as Rocky Point, and a 
little farther along is Thurston's Point with its settle- 
ment. Here let us come to anchor right off the stone 
wharf. Of course you have brought your fishing- 
lines, frying-pan and boiler, and if you have no bait 
it will not take long to dig a few clams. This is 
a famous place for salt water perch, better known 
as cunners, and in a short time you will have all you 
want to cook. Tlien some of the men of the party 
will start a fire, while others have secured some tooth- 
some clams, and fried perch, boiled clams, or perhaps 



78 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Auu. 

a clam chowder, will add to the mid-day meal and 
appease that prodigious appetite which this outing 
has stimulated. 

After dinner you can keep on down the ri\er, 
passing Jones' creek on the left and Wheeler's Point 
on the right. This Point has attained a well deserved 
popularity as a charming spot to pass the summer 
months, being most advantageously situated and com- 
manding a view which is unsurpassed for beautiful 
effects. Camp Coot occupies a position close to the 
water, and its occupants enjoy the delights of camp 
life during the season. 

Turning sharp to the right you enter Mill creek, 
and it will well repay you to turn the bow of your 
boat up this stream and follow it to its source. To 
the left as you enter the creek, is Riggs' Point, and 
the remnants of the old wharf where Samuel RisfSfs 
carried on the fishing business previous to the Revolu- 
tionary War (and it w^as carried on there before his 
time, as he did not build the wharf or warehouses 
which heretofore existed; he built only the drvins:- 
houses that stood further back on the hill, and which 
were torn down some sixty years ago). AH about 
here was the scene of much activity in the old-time 
fisheries. A remnant of an old wharf is visible at 
Wheeler's Point, also at Goose Cove. 

The passage up the creek is replete with pleasure, 
with Wheeler's Point on the right and Riverdale on 
the left. At half tide you can row up to the old mill, 



Plcasui'c Drives Around Cape Ann. 79 

aiul if you choose can make a landing and examine 
the soldiers' monument, and then retrace Nour way 
to the main river. The numerous chun houses on 
the banks of the creek, and the piles of white shells 
visible, speak well of the industry of the people ; and 
most of the houses in the village have been paid for 
out of the discounts from the clam banks. The land 
hereabouts is mostly used for summer outings, and it 
is admirably adapted for the purpose. 

Once more into the main river, vou g-et a view 
of Annisquam Point, also the clean white beach — the 
beginning of the far-famed VVingaersheek beach — 
the bridge over Annisquam river and Lobster Cove. 
If you have the time to spare and the tide serves, go 
up the cove, the head of which is very near the Uni- 
versalist church, and it will prove a very interesting 
detour. 

On your return, or if you conclude to keep on in 
the cove, you have a view of the Cambridge Settle- 
ment with its attractive dwellings and the well kept 
lawns, the summer house of George J. Marsh, and 
soon Annisquam lighthouse and Ipswich bay open up 
with all their summer loveline'ss. Cross over and take 
in the beauties of Wingaersheek beach, and the fine 
stone houses on the "Loaf" owned by Edwin C. 
Hawkes, Esq., of Buffalo, X. Y. What a stretch 
of clean white sand I What opportunities for boat- 
ing, bathing and the like I What a picture of beauty 
on a summer afternoon ! And it docs not take much 



So Plcasio'c Drives Around Cape A)in. 

stretch of imagination to look forward to a few years 
in the future when a summer hotel will grace some 
of the attractive knolls, and a gay company will sport 
and draw strength and inspiration from nature's well 
tilled storehouse. 

Now having made the tour of the ri\er and bay, 
the home journey is taken up river. You can vary 
this, if vou choose, by entering Jones' Creek on your 
right, and take the passage around the island. With 
the tide in your favor, you slip easily along and reach 
the stone pier. Then you keep on until you come to 
the creek, whicli will carry you out near Russ' island, 
makinir a sfrand detour of the river which is filled 
with manv surprises. Continuing the way o\er the 
route which you came, you are soon at the canal and 
into Gloucester harbor again, having enjoyed one 
of tlie most pleasurable trips to be found on the coast 
of New England, a repetition of which will afford 
new pleasures and delights. 

This river forms the connecting link between 
Gloucester harbor and Ipswich bay, and its beauties 
are thoroughly appreciated by hundreds of tourists 
who take this route to avoid the much longer one that 
necessitates going around the Cape. 



Reverse Shi^cct. 



TN the drive arouiul the Cape there are two detours 
which might be made. Just to the rear of the 
UuiversaHst church at Annisquam is Nashua street, 
which leads to the Nashua Settlement, where many 
summer cottages are situated. It will be found 
a very pleasant point to visit, offering a fine view 
of Ipswich bay and its pleasant surroundings. 

Returning to the main road, we drive a short dis- 
tance to the eastward and enter Revere street, which 
extends about one mile into the woods, making a very 
pleasant summer drive. The street leads up to the 
house now owned and occupied by Mr. David Den- 
nison. The house is one hundred and sixty-nine 
years old, and was built by Mr. George Dennison, 
the first settler. Persons visiting the Dennison place 
should not neglect to get a drink of water from the 
celebrated spring, which they will find to be cool and 
s^^arkling, and the best on the Cape. 

On the drive over this street you can obtain a good 
view of the Rockport Granite Company's quarries, 
and the " Blondin," used for hoisting and handling 
blocks of granite from the quarry. A fine view 
of Ipswich bay also meets the eye. 



We^t GloLiee^her^ CJ^aio. 



[After the chapter entitled " Around the Parish "" had l)een 
printed, a friend living- in that vicinity called our attention 
to the " Dark Hole Road" so called, and other pleasant spots 
in West Gloucester, to which we had not alluded. We there- 
fore determined to devote another chapter to West Glouces- 
ter, and we give it here. — Pibs.] 

' I 'HE hand of art and of improvement has not 
wholly changed all of the old roads and rustic 
by-ways in the village of West Gloucester. A few 
still remain picturesque and attractive by their crook- 
edness, their narrowness, winding along under the 
shade of primeval trees, through whose wide-spread- 
ing branches one often looks with delight upon rare 
bits of scenery. 

The "Dark Hole Road," better adapted now for 
pedestrian travel than as a carriage road, is beautiful 
and attractive from the very neglect to which it has 
been left. Entrance to this road is almost directly 
opposite the Congregational church, and it winds 
alonof for a distance of about a mile, when the 
traveller comes out into the open country on "Turtle 
Pond Hill" "at the parting of the ways." 

The road to the right leads "'round the parish," 
coming out on Concord street; the road to the left 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. S3 

leads down the hill to the cemetery and to the parting 
of the roads again. Follow the road to the right till 
you come to the bridge over the river, cross the bridge, 
walk or drive on through a lovely region of country 
till the road to Conomo Point is reached. Here 
again the traveller hesitates and questions whether to 
go on a short distance, where two roads will again 
confront him, the road to the left leading through one 
of the most beautiful bits of forest roads in Essex 
countv, coming out to Essex avenue near the guide- 
board, which points you east to Gloucester and west 
to Essex, Hamilton and Ipswich. The road to the 
right leads on past the well cultivated farm of Mr. 
AKah Lufkin, through a most charming circuitous 
narrow roadway, bounded on either side by old stone 
walls covered with grey moss and many colored 
lichens, while the air is fragant with barberry blos- 
soms, sweet briers, wild roses, viburnums, golden 
rod, the hemlock and pines. 

Along this delightful old road which leads past 
the " island school house " to the causeway across the 
marshes to the town of Essex, the perspective views 
of the ocean and the river are exquisite, while in the 
foregrround the broad marshes with their emerald 
tints in early spring, changing into golden brown in 
the early autumn, make a picture from which the eye 
never turns with weariness. 

The drive "Around the Parish" is a favorite one. 
Riding from Gloucester over Essex avenue, leave the 



84 Pleasure Drives Aroimd Cape Ann. 

avenue at Concord street, and after a drive under 
the shade of maples, pines, white birches, and along 
a pretty stretch of willows, where the wild grape vine 
grows luxuriantly, twining its multitude of tendrils 
and dark glossy leaves over the stone walls and high 
among the branches of trees and shrubs, and tlie air 
is filled with delicious perfumes of wild roses, elder 
blooms and pines, you reach the end of this route just 
above the old Haskell saw-mill, and you have seen 
"many objects in their Arcadian simplicity." 

Drive on a few rods, turn down by the mill into 
the narrow shady road, bordered on one side by 
marshes and cultivated fields, on the other by stone 
walls, trees and a variety of shrubs and flowers. 
This road brings you to the pleasant summer resi- 
dence of Mr. John J. Pew ; turn to the left, and 
a little farther on you come to the home of Mr. 
Thomas Haskell. The old house where he spent the 
first years of his married life is still standing, while 
just a few rods distant is the more modern house he 
had built not many years previous to his death. 
Almost within speaking distance, along a well worn 
foot-path, through the old gateway, is the low old- 
fashioned vine-covered cottage where Mr. Haskell's 
sister lived, and familiarly known all about "the 
parish" as "Aunt Hitty." These two people are 
historic characters, and their names are written beside 
Wendell Phillips, Lucy Stone and the long list of 



Pleasitre Drives Aronnd Cape A;?n. 85 

slavery, non-resistance and temperance reformers, 
who have passed on to the higher life. 

Returning from the cottage, go through the farm- 
yard to the beautiful pine grove, beneath the generous 
shade of which winds a charming wooded road ; fol- 
low on till you come to the gate, which one finds easy 
to open, then out again into the open highway, where 
three roads confront the traveller. The one to the 
right takes you between hedge rows of blueberry and 
barberry bushes, out over the bridge near the Haskell 
school house, and here again one can follow his own 
choice. Go to the left, " 'round the parish," or fol- 
low the straight road out onto Essex avenue. Drive 
to the left to Essex, or make another divergence to the 
left, and you come again onto Essex avenue. The 
third, or middle road, leads to Conomo Point. 

The summer tourist or whoever mav chance to 
journey for pleasure along these old roads will find 
much to delight the eye as they pass on "through 
pleasant valleys, under the brows of hills, along by 
the winding river, now half way up some gentle 
eminence that commands charming views of the vil- 
lage, or winding round a hill and giving us a new 
view of the scenes we have just passed.'.' 






MOUNT ANNE is the highest point of hind on 
Cape Ann, and proves a verv attractive featnre, 
and is annuallv visited bv a hirije number of delisfhted 
tourists. Tiiis has been briefly aUuded to in the drive 
"Around the Parish," but is deserving of further 
mention. 

The mountain is easv of access bv two roads, the 
first near Liberty Hall, and the other, farther on, lead- 
ing: to the left from the old Haskell saw-mill throuo-h 
what is known as " Qiieechv Run" road. Both 
of these roads are attractive, leading on beside a wind- 
ing brook, bordered on either side with ferns and the 
earlv spring flowers, and in the autinnn the brilliant 
cardinal flowers mirror themselves in its bro\vn 
depths. This shadv pathway leads to the ver}- sum- 
mit of the mountain, where one looks out upon mag- 
nificent views of both inland and ocean scenery. 

Not far from "Qiieechy Run" road is "Brae- 
wood," the home of Miss Maria H. Bray, whose 
house during: the summer season is the resort for 
pleasant people, who find a charm and attraction in 
the social life of this home. There is also a fascina- 



I 

*■ 

i 



Pleasure Drives Aroimd Cape Ann. 87 

tion in this quiet retreat, from the large area of pine 
woods which surrounds it and intercepts to a certain 
extent the full force and harshness of the sea air, 
leaving just enough of the salt ox3^gen to mingle with 
the tonic of the pines and hemlocks, thus forming an 
invigorating atmosphere. It is a peaceful summer 
resort for the weary and those who want rest and 
pleasant home life. 




Old OQeehiiQ^ Mou^e "Hi 



T 



URNING to the left from Concord street less 
than a mile from Essex avenue, is Tompson 
street, still known by its local name of "Old Meeting 
House Road." After leavins: the dvvellino^s at the 
junction of Concord and Tompson streets not a build- 
ing: is to be seen in the whole distance to the crossing: 
of Bray street, perhaps a mile and a half away. 

Tompson street leads first up a steep hill from 
which a beautiful view can be obtained of Annisquam 
river and the Harbor village, the islands and River- 
dale shore, with pleasant homes and gardens on the 
West Gloucester side in the immediate foreground, a 
little farther to the rioht "frost flunii" walls and scat- 
tering foundation stones mark the "old Bray place," 
the boundaries of the garden about the old cellar 
being well defined, with here and there shoots of old 
orchard trees. 

The road winds along into a valley where on the 
left a mowing: field shows where once was "Averv's 
orchard." Farther along we are told stood the old 
house, from which Samuel Avery and his brother 
John, the last males of their name in the second 
parish, went out the day that the waves closed over 
them near the beach of Wingaersheek. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. S9 

Along tliroiigh a way bordered with alders and 
lurches and bright with wild flowers, a turn up 
another hill and on your right is the foundations of an 
old tavern, so it is said, although who was its tenant 
the traditions do not say, then a little farther and you 
are on "Old Meeting House Hill," the only trace of 
the old church being a few scattering stones of its 
foundation, there for nearly seven score vears stood 
the old house of worship, torn down in 1S46. The 
hill is an elevation with a fine view from its summit. 

In front of the church was the o^round used for 
military evolutions in the ''training days" of our 
ancestors. Farther to the \vest Bray street crosses, 
and until a few year ag-o an ancient house stood near 
which was the residence of the first pastor of the 
Parish, Rev. Samuel Tompson, mentioned in another 
chapter. From Bray street Tompson continues 
northwester until passing the "old burying ground," 
it comes out upon Concord street again. 




NANNIE C. BOHLIN 



^n U|^-ho-J)ahe GloLiec^hep 



TT MODERN type of fishing vessel is the pride and 
dello'ht of every true Gloucesterite, and tlie 
ownership or command of one is the hope of every 
brawny fisherman who expects some day to prefix 
" Skipper " to his name. Well may the sons of Glou- 
cester feel proud ; and pardonable the pride of every 
man who commands one of the marine architect's 
skill. 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ami. 91 

A Gloucester skipper considers his staunch \ cssel 
his ocean home. Firmly and deeply attached to her, 
he knows thoroughly her every good c[ualitv and 
unflinchingly lauds her worthiness in manv an inter- 
esting argument with his brother commanders. 

And he is proud of the looks of his pet, too, and 
pays as much attention to her outward appearance as 
to her inward comfort. Many times a year she is 
hauled out on the marine railways and treated to 
handsome coats of paint. Spars are kept bright, 
decks clean, and a general air of neatness luade to 
pervade tlie whole craft. 

The accompanying cut is a fine representation 
of a model modern fishinof schooner. Note her hand- 
some sheer, perfect fitting sails, long bowsprit and 
trim rig. Is she not every whit as handsome as the 
proud yachts wdiich flit about like butterflies on the 
summer seas? 

Remember, dear reader, that these modern fishing 
craft are of no "rule of thumb" origin. They are 
drafted, moulded and modelled with the greatest care 
by architects of rank like Capt. G. Melvin McClain, 
Stewart and Binney and others of note. Even the 
lamented Burgess and Lawlor took pride in designing 
fishing craft. 

Their speed, power, stability and carrying capacity 
then are not to be wondered at when it is remembered 
how they are designed, added to the fact that they are 
built in the strongest possible manner. Don't be 



92 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ati7z. 

surprised if you should chance to be enjoying a yacht- 
ing cruise along shore some summer, and one of these 
white- winged fishing craft should come up under your 
lee, cross vour bow and go off to windward about her 
business. Many like instances have happened and do 
occur every season. 

It would require more space than can be afforded 
here to tell the stories of some of these crafts, of their 
wonderful sailing qualities ; their ability to carry sail ; 
the terrible weather they will face, "beating" up 
Boston bay in the winter time ; and entering Boston 
harbor when steamers would not dare leave port. 
All these must be made tales bv themselves. 



[The cuts of vessels used in this vohime to represent up- 
to-date fishing crafts are taken from among the fleet owned 
hv Mr. William II. Jordan of this citv. who conducts one of 
the leading concerns of this port.] 




\^ ^ui^f^ide +lohGl. 



T\ FIRST-CLASS hotel is a great desideratum to 

a town or city, and such an one in every respect 

is the Surfside, under the management of Mr. F. H. 

Sawyer, who made a successful initiatory season in 

1895. 

The house was formerly known as the Pavilion, 
and occupies a commanding position on Pavilion 
Beach, within five minutes' walk of the post office. 

It has a good harbor and ocean view, and everything 
is new and clean with good attendance. Excellent 
cuisine, nice table linen, and dining hall appointments 
unsurpassed. The sleeping accommodations are of a 
high order of excellence, luxuriant beds and modern 
furniture. Thoroughly screened. Perfect drainage. 

Good bathing, boating, fishing and delightful 
woodland rides. It will be observed that many of the 
drives in this little volume start from the Surfside. 
This was on account of the choice central location. 
We feel assured reader that you will find a good home- 
like hotel at the Surfside. 



ioIIgI Faeh^ Qonee^nm^ GloLiee^hGi^. 



OTARTING from Gloucester we hu\c taken }ou, 
in these short articles, around the pleasant 
drives which extend through and from Cape Ann. 
We doubt whether in the variety which they afford 
their equal can be found anywhere along the coast — 
now skirting the pleasant shore bathed with the nexer 
ceasing flow and ebb of old ocean, and then in and 
throutjfh the shaded wood and countrv road. i\nd 
the more you drive the more you come to love them 
for their sense of rest and quiet, and to long for them 
with each returning summer season. We know you 
will enjoy them all, you cannot help it. 

Gloucester bids you welcome to her open hospi- 
tality. We bid you come again and again to her cit\- 
streets and quiet lanes. We bid you drink deep 
of the health giving life which she so al)undantly 
supplies. And before closing this small volume we 
give just a word about her and her history, so well 
written by one of her enthusiastic lovers who looks 
confidently into that future which must come to a 
place so well favored by nature and by fortune : 

"Gloucester, in Essex county, is cliarmingly sit- 
uated on Cape Ann, the most prominent point of land 



94 Pleasure Drives Around Cape Arui. 

on the northeastern coast of Massachusetts. Its shores 
are washed by the waves of the broad Atlantic as well 
as those of Massachusetts bay. Its broad, capacious 
and beautiful harbor is one of the best alon<j: the 
whole seaboard. 

Gloucester's settlement dates as early as 1623, but 
centuries before its shores were visited by the hardy 
Norsemen, and even in 1605 by the courageous 
adventurers who were then exploring the New World. 
It was incorporated as a town in 1643, and for two 
hundred and fifty years its history has been honorable 
and full of brave deeds and tenacious activity. Its 
population (1S96) is 29,000. 

Situated on a branch of the Boston and Maine 
railroad, thirty-two miles from Boston, Gloucester 
has the ad\antage of splendid train service, both local 
and express, with low transportation rates. It is the 
centre of an electric railroad svstem, which is admir- 

■J ' 

aldy equipped and furnishes easy connection with all 
parts of the Cape and Essex county. 

As a fishing port it is the largest in the United 
States; it is the head centre of the fresh and salt fish 
industry. It has first-class steamer service for freight 
and passengers. Its harbor is safe and easy of access. 
Its next larsrest industrv is the o^ranite, and this is 
constantlv o^rowin^^ in extent and value. It has a 
large foreign import trade in salt, and domestic trade 
in lumber and coal. The leading industries are ship- 
building, fish glue, anchors, oil clothing, net and 



Pleasure Drives Around Cape Ann. 95 

twine, seines, boots and shoes. Its mail facilities are 
first-class. It has the best water system in Massachu- 
setts, electric light and gas plants, schools of the 
higiiest grade, churches of all denominations, well- 
endowed public library. Memorial Hospital, Old 
People's Homes, a superior fire department, and, best 
of all, low valuation and moderate tax rate, with 
low municipal debt. 

Unusual facilities are offered to manufacturers 
of all kinds, and it will pay any one desiring good 
location and good and cheap help to look Gloucester 
over. It has live merchant organizations in the shape 
of the Board of Trade and the energetic Business 
Men's Association, which numbers four hundred 
members and has splendidly equipped rooms in the 
very business centre of the city. Although a city 
of good size, it takes high rank as a sober, industri- 
ous, law-loving population. 

As a summer resort its equal cannot be found 
along the North Shore, with the verv best of hotels 
and boarding-houses. Delightful locations for own- 
ing one's own home. Beautiful drives along the 
shore, or into the country, o\er well-kept roads. 

The merchants are hustlers, and in catering to 
retail trade thev offer the finest stock of goods and the 
lowest prices. Strangers find hearty welcome to the 
citv, and are soon made to feel at home. Look 
Gloucester over and watch its future. It is bound to 
grow and prosper." 



GloLiCG^her^ +lai^[e)OP, ^Q'^o. 



n^lIE accompanying illustration is a representation 
of the outer harbor, taken from the beach at 
Western avenue in 1830. How different is the view 
at this dav. All along the water front is built up, 
and the hill, which at fliat time was bare of dwelling 
houses, is now covered with some of the finest resi- 
dences in the city. 

The old windmill, which then occupied the posi- 
tion where the Surfside hotel now stands, was for 
many years an important landmark on entering the 
harbor. It was erected in 1S14 by Mr. Ignatius 
Webber, a successful shipmaster, who retired from 
commercial pursuits in 1S06, and for three years sub- 
sequently was connected with Messrs. Aaron and 
Henry Plumer in carrying on the ropewalk (which 
mav be seen in the illustration), which was built by 
Capt. Webber and Mr. Aaron Plumer in 1S03, and 
sold at auction about 18 10 to Mr. John Somes, Jr., 

for $4550- 

The windmill was removed to Commercial street 

when the Pavilion (now Surfside hotel) was erected, 

and was so badly injured by fire July 5, 1S77, that it 

was sold and removed. 



^[^G Old Foph and GlociCG^hep 
+lapk)OP \n 1837. 



"^T^HE annexed engraving gives a capital view of the 
old Fort and Gloucester harbor in 1S37. What 
a great change has \^een effected since that time. 
Then there was but one building, besides the ruins, at 
the Fort, now it is covered with dwellings and store- 
houses, and is one of the busiest spots in the city. 
Its entire water front has been converted into fine 
wharves, forming one of the most valuable pieces 
of property hereabouts. 

The Grand Banker and pinkey, typical crafts 
■of those days, look as natural as can be. What a con- 
trast to the up-to-date craft of to-day. 

A drive around the old Fort is replete with inter- 
test, ofivin": a fine harbor view. It is verv easily 
reached from the western end of Main street, turning 
into Commercial street and at the end of Commercial 
street turning to the right or to the left. 




HENRY M. STANLEY. 



Errata. 

On page 9 the schooner Rigel was engaged in the fletched 
halibut fishery, instead of tlie herring. 

On page 33, it should read. Miss Martha Marvin, instead 
of "Marion," washed off the rocks at Rafe's Chasm. 



[Copyright, 1S96, by Procter Brothers.] 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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